View Full Version : Wiring Loom
gus
4th December 2008, 12:48 PM
Could anybody tell me what wiring looms they have been using.
I am looking at using the complete loom from the donor, and removing all the parts not needed.
I was wondering if I do this where is the best place to site the fuse box. If it is like the donor then it will be on top of the pedal box, or close to it.
Any advice appreciated
spud69
4th December 2008, 03:40 PM
I used the wiring loom from the donor Sierra, sited the fuse box within the bulkhead / firewall. it'll then be hidden by the dashboard. Took all the unnecessary sections off, its just time consuming and fiddly but well worth it.
Jezzer99
4th December 2008, 04:31 PM
spud69 - like your exhaust - where did you get that from?
Cheers,
Jeff
gus
4th December 2008, 04:33 PM
Looking at your photos, the fuse box looks like it is set through the bulkhead. Are fuses accessable from with in the engine bay?
Did you retain the security module? If you did how did you get it to work without the central locking system? Have you got a hidden switch that only activates the immobiliser part of the system?
Thanks for reply
spud69
4th December 2008, 06:48 PM
Exhaust - to keep costs cheap i re-used the existing 4 to 2 manifold from the sierra then turned the 2 into 1 so that it came out the side of the car instead of underneath. Then welded a 2" x 90 bend and some 2" steel pipe onto a 2" silencer off e-bay. Finished with a couple of coats of exhaust paint. Color scheme is orange and black so turned out pretty well all in for £40.
Fuse box - The lid to the fuse box is in the engine bay so is easily accessible. wrt to the security module as long as you remove the wiring loom with the central locking unlocked it will stay deactivated. I've then rivetted it to the bulkhead out the way.
Cheers...Andy
gus
5th December 2008, 08:03 AM
Did you then just cut off the central locking wires, leaving only the two wires for the coil feed connected to the security module? Do you still need to leave the live feed & the earth conneted to the security module?
Thanks
Gus
Jezzer99
5th December 2008, 11:04 AM
Andy - would be good to see a few more pics of your exhaust manfold arrangement if you can? What's the engine you're using? Is it a CVH?
spud69
5th December 2008, 03:58 PM
I just cut the wires going to the central locking, but still left all connections going into the security module. Main reason being that i didn't fancy immobilising the engine by removing the wrong wires so just left them all in place except the wires were i was sure where they went. Maybe i was lucky the unit didn't shut down but its stayed live no problems yet.
Yes Jezzer it is the 1.8cvh, i'll take some pics later.
Cheers....Andy
Jezzer99
19th December 2008, 09:58 PM
Andy - any chance of a few more pics of your manifold/exhaust?
spud69
19th December 2008, 10:53 PM
Sorry i forgot in all the excitement, i'll do it tomorrow....;)
spud69
21st December 2008, 10:37 AM
Pictures of exhaust manifold Jezzer, sorry it took a while. The only awkward part of reusing the sierra manifold is converting the 2 into 1 manifold to exit the side of the car instead of underneath. If you cut of the pipes at the main flange and the turn the manifold around 180 degrees and reweld onto the manifold, this is fiddly to get it to exit in the right place and you will have to trim the end of the pipes so that they fit squarely onto the flange. You can then purchase some 2" exhaust pipe and a 90 bend and weld to suit to connect the rear silencer.
It is a bit fiddly but is the cheapest way to do it and it does look okay.
Regards...Andy
Jezzer99
21st December 2008, 10:44 AM
Nice one - cheers mate.
gus
22nd December 2008, 08:37 AM
Spud69.
Did you use the original cast engine mounts on both sides of the engine?
Thanks
Gus
spud69
22nd December 2008, 11:45 AM
I used the cast one on the nearside but on the offside it fouls the steering column. If you fit the nearside support and chock the engine to the correct position you can then fabricate a new support for the offside raising it slightly to allow for the compression of the rubber.
I used 5mm plate for the flange to the engine, chassis and rubber then welded a steel box between the two, worked a treat. You can see it on the attached pic.
Regards.....Andy
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