Bonzo
23rd July 2009, 10:00 AM
Well chaps the posts are going thick and fast now
I was about to give this reply to Andys handbrake thread & now its gone.
Hi Andy
I had a quick look at the possible route of the handbrake cable yesterday, not having a cable to hand, I did think to myself " That is going to be tight "
Perhaps if you can post a picture I can offer some better advice.
There are, p clamps that you can get to support handbrake cables & the likes.
Adrian
On the first set of uprights I made, I too had some clearance issues.
Not wanting to go through the hassle of making plates RU7 & RU8 again by hand, I bought them from 3GE
Having looked long & hard into the potential clearance issues, I decided to construct the rear uprights slightly different.
Heres some pictures of the minor changes made.
Upright carcasses
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj266/Bonzoronnie/upright.jpg
Once these were made to this stage.
I placed RU7 on top of the tube RU5 as opposed to flush with the face of it.
Two reasons for this.
1: I felt that I could get a better quality weld between RU7 & RU5.
2: I gained an extra 10 mm on the upright
Plate RU8 was then welded to RU7 as per book.
A couple more pictures of the uprights fitted to the chassis
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj266/Bonzoronnie/hub1.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj266/Bonzoronnie/hub2.jpg
Sorry the pictures are not very clear but Do feel that they illustrate what I have gained from this minor change.
10mm extra clearance in the following areas . Handbrake cable, bleed nipple,
more room to fix the flexi hose. Finally 10mm extra clearance between the lower wishbone fixings & wheel rim
To compensate for the extra 10mm gained in the upright. the wishbones were made to the original book spec ( First edition ) & using the driveshafts as is.
All have been fitted to the car & I am pleased with the result.
I am not saying that this is the way it should be done. Just a personal choce that I decided to make .;)
EDIT
Please note, I have not as yet fully welded RU5 to RU7 & RU8
I was about to give this reply to Andys handbrake thread & now its gone.
Hi Andy
I had a quick look at the possible route of the handbrake cable yesterday, not having a cable to hand, I did think to myself " That is going to be tight "
Perhaps if you can post a picture I can offer some better advice.
There are, p clamps that you can get to support handbrake cables & the likes.
Adrian
On the first set of uprights I made, I too had some clearance issues.
Not wanting to go through the hassle of making plates RU7 & RU8 again by hand, I bought them from 3GE
Having looked long & hard into the potential clearance issues, I decided to construct the rear uprights slightly different.
Heres some pictures of the minor changes made.
Upright carcasses
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj266/Bonzoronnie/upright.jpg
Once these were made to this stage.
I placed RU7 on top of the tube RU5 as opposed to flush with the face of it.
Two reasons for this.
1: I felt that I could get a better quality weld between RU7 & RU5.
2: I gained an extra 10 mm on the upright
Plate RU8 was then welded to RU7 as per book.
A couple more pictures of the uprights fitted to the chassis
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj266/Bonzoronnie/hub1.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj266/Bonzoronnie/hub2.jpg
Sorry the pictures are not very clear but Do feel that they illustrate what I have gained from this minor change.
10mm extra clearance in the following areas . Handbrake cable, bleed nipple,
more room to fix the flexi hose. Finally 10mm extra clearance between the lower wishbone fixings & wheel rim
To compensate for the extra 10mm gained in the upright. the wishbones were made to the original book spec ( First edition ) & using the driveshafts as is.
All have been fitted to the car & I am pleased with the result.
I am not saying that this is the way it should be done. Just a personal choce that I decided to make .;)
EDIT
Please note, I have not as yet fully welded RU5 to RU7 & RU8