Engine position

[Bonzo]

I have my engine & gearbox sat in my chassis ( On blocks )

It has been placed at what I think is the ideal position ( Technicaly ) . Centre of the front crank pulley more or less in a direct straight line to the centre of the input shaft of the diff.
As far back as possible, 20mm clearance between cylider head & scuttle chassis rails.

Looking at the Escort Silvertop Zetec 1.8 sump it will require a bit of a trim to gain maximum ground clearance.

Before I finally get round to fabricating the engine mounting arms :o . I thought that I would ask for some views.

What are the potential, problems/disadvantages of doing any of the following :confused:

Moving the engine forward a couple of inches to possibly allow the use of he standard Zetec Thermostat housing.

Raising the engine a little to allow maximum ground clearance without modding the sump.

One last thing. What thickness material have others used to fabricate the new engine mounting plates.

All thoughts welcome:) :)

[Tilly819]

Hey ronnie

main thing is try and keep the prop shaft straight, I dont suspect that moving the engine forward or up an inch ot so would make that much diferance to weight distribution or C.of.G also like you say it also alows you more room to fit other parts if you want,

In responce to your other question i now its not quite the same in that i have a bike engine but i used 5mm for the frame founts for the grear box for that then standard box for the cradle, but for a silvertop id expact you would be fine with 5mm wouldnt go thinner i have heard of people breaking 3mm mounts but i dont think you would need to get thicker.. just over kill

Hop this helps
Tilly

[HandyAndy]

Ronnie,
just be aware of the gearstick position if you you move thengine forward, also watch out on the reverse light switch, its very close to one of the tranny tunnel uprights if you go too far forward. ;) :)

on height of the engine it depends on what bonnet you,ll be putting on, my engine still leaves me about 10mm above the engine oil filler cap to the underside of the bonnet, tho my sump is a shortened one.

i used 10mm plate for the engine mount that bolts into the block, 5mm plate that sits ontop of the rubber engine mount & 2 pieces of 25mm box welded together to make the "leg".

good luck with your engine fitting ;) :)

andy

[davie h]

i made my zetec engine mounts from 35x35mm square tube it was 3mm thick and used 5mm plate for the bits that bolt to the engine and the mounts. i also bought a escort zetec sump and it looks like i wont need to mod it and from checking a nose cone and the height of the scuttle i have plent of room.there are a couple of pics of the mounts and the final engine position on my flickr thing below

Davie

[Bonzo]

Cheers Tilly, Andy & Davie.

All, helfull as usual :) :)

Davie. I have just had a look at your build photos.

May I ask if the engine pictured, is in its final position. This is more or less the final placement that I was thinking.

I have just been out for a quick measure up.
With first gear engaged I can come forward 55mm before contact with the transmission tunnel rails.

At its current level, I have 200mm to the top of the timing belt cover ( Measured from the top rails )

Have you been able to fit the original Zetec Thermostat housing Davie ?

Thanks for your support chaps :) :)

[adrianreeve]

Ronnie

I'm using the ford 'stat and col pack housing in their original positions with no problem, so you should be fine.

Cheers

Adrian

[Bonzo]

Cheers Adrian :) :)

[deezee]

I've litrally just got my engine in. I decided base its position on the gearbox. So I made sure the gearbox was clear, lever was in right place, and reverse switch wasn't in the way.

I then fabbed up my mounts out of 40x40x2 SHS, with 5mm plate and landrover engine mounts. I think it looks the biz :D

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2453/3775638146_4548f2ccbd.jpg

[mr henderson]

I think 3mm is OK depending on the design of the mount itself. Just depends on the shape and how close any folds/bends/filets are to eachother. A well designed and made 3mm mount would be better than a poorly designed 5mm one.

[Bonzo]

Cheers for that chaps.:) :)

I have bought a pair of those V8 Landrover mounts, ideal for the job.

Yes a lighter,well designed component is often better than a poorly made heavier part. ;)

[davie h]

Cheers Tilly, Andy & Davie.

All, helfull as usual :) :)

Davie. I have just had a look at your build photos.

May I ask if the engine pictured, is in its final position. This is more or less the final placement that I was thinking.

I have just been out for a quick measure up.
With first gear engaged I can come forward 55mm before contact with the transmission tunnel rails.

At its current level, I have 200mm to the top of the timing belt cover ( Measured from the top rails )

Have you been able to fit the original Zetec Thermostat housing Davie ?

Thanks for your support chaps :) :)

Ronnie

thats my final position of the engine best of both placements of the engine and box not much clearence at the reverse switch but i can mod the switch if needed. i have used the original thermostat housing but if it needs to be removed when the cars complete i would need to raise the engine to get one of the bolts out. i havent done much to the car since the pics were taken as im about to lose my garage (being made into another room) and had to build a build area in my back garden almost complete so i can start on the car again

David