front frame

[james83mills]

i've looked through the forum but i can't find anything to help (i think those evil pixies at haynes have deleted the threads i need) but i just can't get my head around the front frame

can anybody help?

[HandyAndy]

Hi, ahh the front frame :eek: its a tricky little blighter :D

if you make the jig as per book it,ll come together if you take your time it.

before you fully weld it, just tack it together & offer it up to the build table & check the dimensions as per the book.

it took me 2 attempts to get it right :o :D

i,m fairly local to you so if i can help then just shout.

andy

[RAYLEE29]

Its not really that complicated which bit are you having trouble with?
there used to be a whole section on how to make it but it got deleted by the hacker.
if your patient i think chris may be able to put it back on in a few days time.
otherwise im happy to try and explain how its done
Ray:)

[james83mills]

the problem i'm having are the angles on ff2 and ff3 is it a compond mitre cut 26 by 14

think i might make a mock up from wood then try again in metal

also should the uncut lengths of metal be 359.5mm

my plan is to to cut the metal to length then mark the angle to be cut shade the scrap then grind away, i think that will work

[RAYLEE29]

ok the bottom inner corner of the two uprights is where the angle starts from scribe the angle from there its 26 degrees across and 14 degrees back then follow it round from the ends of the scribe line once you have joined up the scribe line all thway round you can grind of to the scribe line and it should sit on the piece at the required angles
hope you can understand where im coming from
Ray

[RAYLEE29]

just looked at the notes in my book and the cuttting lenghth is indeed 359.5
Ray:)

[RAYLEE29]

some pics of the finished article if they help

[james83mills]

thanks for all the advice guys will be wednesday before i can try again though

[AshG]

Here are the guides that used to be on the fourm

I have hosted them until chris gets back round to doing a new sticky

Book |Amendments
http://www.haynesroadster.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/haynesForum/BYOSC_amendments_1.4.pdf

Front Frame Guide Part 1
http://www.haynesroadster.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/haynesForum/front_frame_guide_part1.doc


Front Frane Guide Part 2
http://www.haynesroadster.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/haynesForum/front_frame_guide_part2.doc


Front Frame Part 3
http://www.haynesroadster.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/haynesForum/front_frame_guide_part3.doc


Rear Lower Wishbone Revised Design
http://www.haynesroadster.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/haynesForum/Roadster_Rear_Lower_Wishbone.pdf


Rear Upper Wishbone Revised Design
http://www.haynesroadster.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/haynesForum/Roadster_Rear_Upper_Wishbone.pdf


Steering Rack Support Revised Drawing
http://www.haynesroadster.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/haynesForum/steering_support.pdf

[james83mills]

some of the above links don't work :(

[alga]

In one sentence, cut the 26 degree angle, then with a protractor mark the 14 degree angle on high and low end of the cut, connect the lines, and cut or grind away.

[squbti]

433

434

[squbti]

435

436

437

438

439

[squbti]

440

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444

[squbti]

445

446

[squbti]

hi all , hope this helps someone ,it sure as hell helped me with the front frame.( these are the drawings i got off the forum & i belive are made by chris gibbs).
cheers

[AshG]

links now fixed

[squbti]

hi ashg, sorry didnt know the link was fixed i tryed to find it but couldnt so i thought i would post the drawings just in case . oh well better late than never.
samy

[AshG]

the problem was that i first posted them as docx files but got a request to change them to doc. i updated the links in the other thread but not this one.

as long as the info is out there it doesnt matter how we share it :D

[squbti]

hey ashg , i couldnt have said it better ( as long as the info is out there).we all do what we can to help.
cheers
samy

[Land Locked]

Thanks from all of us to those of you who have the information and are prepared to share!:D

[maspear1]

I realize this thread is over 2 years old but it is the only one that partially address a question I have: Fig 4.6 (p36) and the Appendix (p162) show FF4 as 630, but Fig 4.8 (p38) show that same area being 627. Talonmotorsports asked the question on page 1 and as far as I can tell it hasn't been answered anywhere.

Are TR1 and TR2 supposed to be spaced out so that the ends are 627 apart from each other, and 1.5mm inward from the each end of FF4 like Fig 4.8? Or are they supposed to be lined up with the outer edges of FF4?

I'm finding that if TR1 and TR2 are lined up with the outer edges of FF4 at 630 then TR8 and TR9 are slightly larger than they should be according to the Appendix. I think TR8 should be even with BR10, but they're not with this layout.

One other random question: some measurement on the figures have '=' on both sides. Why? Im located in the US so this could just be uncommon to me. Thank you for any help.

[ozzy1]

If you make it 630mm then you will be better off as you will not have to put packers behind your front wishbone brackets on U1 and U2 to get them aligned.

Dont have my book with me so cant answer the others from memory.

"=" means its equal about the centreline.Therefore if its 630mm overall then its 315mm either side of centre.

[maspear1]

Thanks for the quick response. It seems that if TR1 and TR2 630mm apart, adjustments have to adjust TR8 and TR9 making them a little wider than they should be. Also if BR10 and TR8 are supposed to be the same size, making TR8 wider would mean U3 and U6 are no longer at the 90* angles. Is the alternative of spacing them at 627 and using packers really that bad?

I know it may seem like I'm paying too muck attention to such minute details, but I just want to make sure I adhere to the intended design as much as possible with the least amount of changes. Just like everyone else I want my car to be perfect.