DIY Wiring Loom Kit

[Superloom]

The purpose of this post is to see whether any of you will be interested in a DIY wiring loom kit. I am looking at starting doing this part time....

The kit will include:
• Front Wiring Section
• Rear Wiring Section
• Instrument Wiring Section
• Fusebox/Relay Wiring Section
• Crimp spades
• Relay Holders
• 2x 5 way fuse box

The sections will be overcut so you can trim the cable down to your individual needs. The fitting will be very simple, breaking out the required wires from the loom at a convenient point and connecting to that piece of equipment

Price for a kit will be £90 but the first five will be £80

As individual sections:

Front - £30
Rear - £30
Instruments - £20
Fusebox/Relay - £30

If any queries please either PM me or email eddie@superlooms.co.uk

Thanks

Superlooms

[LeonN]

expect this is only avalable for people building to the book with ford gear?

[Superloom]

Not necessarily, i do not provide the connectors in that kit so as long as you had your differnt ones, it would be fine. Providing offcourse the basic things that need to be wired are the same, such as full beam, indicators, instruments, fuel pump etc...

[Enoch]

Hmm, interesting. Given the effort required to remove the donor loom this may be interesting. I have a 2.0 EFI DOHC donor. Would your loom connect to my Sierra switches and supply a switched live to my ECU? To what extent would this loom be "plug and play"? Could well be interested if it saves me pulling wires out ad nauseum. Would it have hazard flasher built in?

[twinturbo]

i do not provide the connectors in that kit

From that I understand that it's just wire tails. No specifics at all.



Loom can be pulled from a sierra in about 3hrs including the dash removal.

Mind, I never bother marking up as I know where everything goes anyway.

TT

[Superloom]

Enoch,
As seen, i do not supply supply the connectors... Purely because you can't buy new sierra connectors, so you will still need to strip your sierra loom of connectors...
It has the wires for the hazard built in and i can supply the flasher relay if needed
In regards to plug and play, You will need to lay the loom in the car and do it one wire at a time, work out where it goes... Cut it to exact length... Crimp it... Connector and attach to piece of equipment
If you have any queries, do not hesitate to email eddie@superlooms.co.uk
Am going away of the christmas period but should still be in email contact
Thanks
Ed

[twinturbo]

Cut it to exact length... Crimp it...

I would be soldering any midloom joins.

TT

[Superloom]

Offcourse to some of the connectors, it will be soldered...
Thanks
SuperLooms

[snapper]

Crimping is considered ( I quote a leading Ford Senior electronics Guru) a better more durable method for Automotive looms.
Soldering can cause local brittle joints and be more liable to breaks and failures.

The professional crimpers are much much better than the cheap Halfords type, I have used a twin ratchet crimper to good effect.

[Land Locked]

Crimping is considered ( I quote a leading Ford Senior electronics Guru) a better more durable method for Automotive looms.
Soldering can cause local brittle joints and be more liable to breaks and failures.

The professional crimpers are much much better than the cheap Halfords type, I have used a twin ratchet crimper to good effect.

I have occasional dealings with some fellas who maintain aircraft (things like 747's) and they all tell how they were taught to never solder a joint. Apparently still current too as the standards forbid soldered joints. Until just recently I was a big believer in soldered joints in automotive wiring.

That said, I'd rather solder than just twist the wires together, but it's no substitute for a well crimped joint. I have over the last few years purchased a fairly full set of crimpers. Money well spent IMHO.

(Hope my ramblings make some sense)

[mark]

I agree with the crimping comments, not as bad as some people make out but a proper ratchet crimping tool is absolutely essential

Saying that im just finishing off my wiring now and any joints have been soldered then covered in heat shrink

[Chris_]

Technically speaking properly crimped joints are better than soldered. But that is assuming you use suitable sized crimps for the cable, which incorporate strain relief for the cable. However, weatherproofing can be problematic so personally for vehicle wiring i prefer neatly soldered, heatshrinked immobilised joints as well.

In my experience, soldered joints only fail when they are a bit bulky and exposed to vibration.

Slightly more on topic, and I hate to sound pessimistic to superlooms about all this but it sounds a lot like you are selling bundles of wire. Have you got any pictures of the made up looms? What are they loomed in? sleeving, spirawrap, flex conduit?

Cheers
Chris

[Enoch]

I am by trade an electronic engineer. I did a 4 year apprenticeship at the Royal Aircraft establishment Farnborough. In all my time there I don't think I ever crimped a connection on any aircraft, it was always soldered and sleeved. Every cable was tied in to a loom, we spent months learning how to lace up a loom correctly. I would always solder and sleeve wherever possible, a decent sleeved joint is impervious to water ingress, a crimped connector is not. Either that or don't drive under water :)

[twinturbo]

a decent sleeved joint is impervious to water ingress, a crimped connector is not. Either that or don't drive under water

Which is what I was always tought.

TT

[Chris_]

A decent sleeved joint is impervious to water ingress, a crimped connector is not.

Too true, but where the soldered joint becomes a short length of solid cable which 'can' be damaged by vibration the crimped joint adds support by crimping to the insulation as well as the copper.

[QUOTE=Enoch;27757]I would always solder and sleeve wherever possible. [\QUOTE]

As would i. But i would make sure, as you say, that the joint is then correctly loomed and supported.

Chris

[Superloom]

Thanks for all your comments...
I have now returned from holiday so back online more often
Again with regards to crimping/soldering. We will supply connectors to join our pieces of kit, i.e. front and rear, so we will crimp half of what needs crimping. The rest is your decision, if you prefer to solder, thats all down to you
As for is all we sell a bundle of wires?
Yes we sell virtually all the wires needed in our kit, except some big wires with are optionally extras, but we also include a few different types of diagrams to make it as easy as possible for you to install the kit. We also supply a fusebox and relay holders...
I am still ironing out some details and i have no pictures to show you at the moment but as soon as i do, i will post them on here.
Am currently looking at different solutions for fuse boxes and relay parts and ordering various parts from different companies to compare. Also still finishing all the diagrams, hopefully within the next week. The diagrams will be completed.
Have edited the first post, our kit has slightly changed:
Our sections are slightly different now:
Front - Engine/Lights mainly
Rear - Lights, Fuel, Handbrake mostly
Instruments Section
Fusebox/Relay Section

As we have realised its easier to understand this way
Look forward to any more suggestions
Thanks
SuperLooms

[dogwood]

I see you have not put a location in your profile.
Can I just ask where you are based.

David

[Superloom]

I see you have not put a location in your profile.
Can I just ask where you are based.

David

Sorry, Will do that now... UK - Essex - Chelmsford area

[spud69]

Just seen this thread so my 2p worth,

Crimping is the preferred choice of connections but if any builders are using this method if you get a syringe and electric grease and inject a small amount of grease into the terminal before pushing together it will stop any future corrosion of the connector.

AndrewH

[Superloom]

Hi Guys,
Sorry i forgot to post some pictures.
Here is the ebay link with a picture of a kit:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250585397465&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT#ht_600wt_1041
Regards
Ed

[gus]

Eddie I have just had a look at your ebay link, and see you list relays for fuel pump and fan.

Do you not use relays for headlights like they do on the original Sierra looms?

Thanks

Gus

[Superloom]

Hi Gus,
Yep your correct, i don't use relays on the headlights. Just on the Fuel Pump and Fan.
Regards
Ed

[gus]

I assume then that the sierra switchgear is capable of handling the power of the lights, and rather than switching relay earths you are switching +ve's instead.

[Enoch]

That's ridiculous, the sierra switches can't switch that sort of current reliably. Sorry but you are asking tiny switches with minute springs on the contact points to switch approx 7.5 amps at full voltage? Relays should always be fitted to the headlamps like Ford do, like Westfield do, like every manufacturer does. You get a pile of them free with your donor, they need to be used.

[Superloom]

Sorry, forgot to add, my standard kit isnt designed to use the original Sierra light switches. I found that most people use aftermarket switches from CBS etc.. and these are more than capable of the current without a relay.

[Superloom]

Obviously this can be changed per order. Hence why our looms are custom and are made to order depending on your requirements.
Regards
Ed

[gus]

Thanks for clearing that up for me Eddie. I couldn't see how you could run that much power through the switches, if Ford couldn't originally.

I was just being nosey really as I am using the donors loom with all the unnecessary circuits cut out.

Thanks

Gus

[HandyAndy]

I found that most people use aftermarket switches from CBS etc..

I thought most builders use the Sierra switches with either the original Sierra loom or the original Sierra switches mated to a new loom ?,

I,ve used the latter example using a Premier wiring loom that does come with the relevant relays etc

cheers
andy