Edis 4

[Jimmyd]

Does anyone know if an edis 4 sparks at 10 degrees TDC even if not connected to an ECU? I'm sure I've read this somewhere. Kind of like a limp home mode. I can't find where I seen it now and know some of you have already some experience with Megajolt etc.

J

[AnguS]

yes without mj or the ford box connected, you get 10 degree fixed
best way to run it first off to prove it works

[Jimmyd]

Thanks!!

J

[AshG]

edis runs at 10degrees before tdc without anything connected to it. only use it to test the engine idles. if you try and drive the car with it like that with out the fueling setup you will have problems.

i think you may have read it in complete kit car mag ;)

[Big Vern]

Mine runs 10 degrees BTDC as Ford intended (its part of the limp home strategy). If your runs 10 degrees after Ash you aint got the trigger in the right place.....

BV

[flyerncle]

And there is definately something wrong if the manifolds are glowing red hot !
Timing or mixture.

[AshG]

And there is definately something wrong if the manifolds are glowing red hot !
Timing or mixture.


sorry guys im going mad. your right its 10deg before tdc and your right about the fuel mix mine was underfueling at the time which will explain the glowing red exahust

will edit my above post so it reads correctly. i hope i got it right in the mag or i will have to write a correction in the next article.

[flyerncle]

Still a credit to you Ash :D

[AshG]

Still a credit to you Ash :D


thats what i like about the forum nothing gets missed. its nice that people put me in my place when i cock up :D

[davidimurray]

If they are glowing red at idle then it's not really a problem - you can't do much damage at idle. If it is glowing red above this then it is running lean - or - you have an air leak in the exhaust. Often people discount the air leak theory but I've seen it quite a few times. The most dramatic being while running an engine on a dyno - one guy was mapping, I was running the dyno and another was lookout. We had the engine at 12000rpm tuning the top end of the map, everything looked good -exhaust gas temps near the headers were good. Suddenly there was a loud bang everything got very loud and my underwear changed colour. On getting everything turned off and getting in the dyno cell it soon became obvious that we had a problem - only half the silencer remained and that was glowing bright red! Turned out that with all the vibration the silencer had worked loose and was sucking as much air as it liked through the joint. The resulting burning inferno inside the can melted it!

[AshG]

mine was fine at idle but was glowing red at raised rpm. i had the carbs professionally setup on the dyno at ATSPEED in essex last week and you could clearly see the carbs were quite badly underfueling at raised rpm from the afr read out. now that they are setup the manifold doesnt get half as hot as it did.

i do recall them using a laser thermometer on the manifold a various stages to check the temp.

[Big Vern]

I shouldn't have thought it possible to have 'red' exhaust at idle unless you'e waving an acetylene torch on the exhaust! Simply not enough calorific value at idle to generate that amount of heat...
At full throttle or close too, then most of the heat is due to retarded ignition though some could be due to friction as the hot gases pass over sharp edges inside the exhaust.
Detonation forces ignition values retarded from optimum thus moving end of combustion closer to the opening of the exhaust valve and thus hotter exhaust temp. You can offset this by richening fuel mixture to cool combustion but this is at the expense of fuel ecomony.
A very lean mixture is unlikely to raise exhaust temp. significantly as the combustion gases become too diluted with excess oxygen reducing energy (heat release). Optimal fueling for something like a Zetec would be 13:1 AFR for full power and around 14.5:1 AFR for cruise/ idle. and about half an AFR richer at full power for a Pinto to allow for poorer fuel distribution across the cylinders.

HTH BV.

[AshG]

im looking at my read out from the rr graph these are all at full throttle

the readings on the sheet are every 100rpm but i have only posted every 500rpm.

at 6000rpm my afr was 12.4
5500rpm 12.85
5000rpm 13.08
4500rpm 13.97
4000rpm 13.29
3500rpm 12.44
3000rpm 12.49

on cruise between 2500rpm and 3700rpm the afr ranges between 13.9 and 14.2 idle at 1000rpm is bang on 14.5

looks like they did a pretty good job then. :D the car did feel like an animal after they did it compared to my pre tune test drive round exeter show ground.

they did a bit more tweeking after these values on the cruse by adjusting the advance in relation to the tps position reading.

will report back on the fuel economy once its legally on the road :D