To Pulse or not to Pulse?

[Deanno]

Currently I just happen to be welding 25mm by 2mm thick box in work for missile launcher trolleys and in certain places i have to pulse it rather than do a run.
just so i know when it come to my chassis assembly.
I know the pulse does not give you as much heat and penetration.

Just thought id ask what your preferred methods are?

Cheers
Dean

[shh120m]

What's pulsing? Sorry mate I'm a bit thick

[Talonmotorsport]

Why are you having to pulse on 2mm material what are you using MMA MIG TIG? If you have the heat/amps set correct and the correct feed rate or filler rod you should have no problems getting a run, I MIG all my chassis and they are 16gauge. The only material I pulse is 0.8-1mm car panels when I'm using MIG.

[Deanno]

I'm using Mag/Mig the only reason i was pulsing was for awkward joints.

Thanks for your input.

Pulsing is where you blip or zap the trigger so you are doing small spots not a constant run.

regards
dean

[Bonzo]

I would normally go for a single run Dean.

If trying to to fill wide gaps you don't really have any alternative to trigger blipping .... Well that is bar, trying vertical down run ;)

You can get some decent penetration by pulsing if you up the current a fair bit ( A bit like you should for a nice hot tack weld )

Is there a particular joint that is causing you a problem ?

[Deanno]

no not started yet waiting to move into the new house with a big garage :D :D
I'm currently welding missile launcher trolleys in work and i was just wondering.

cheers for all the input

Dean

[Talonmotorsport]

If you have to fill large gaps it's either because you've blown holes in the job or the prep work is shaby, corner cutting adds to weld failure. This why all of our wishbones tubes are machine profiled with a mill not just cut on the saw and filled in.

[flyerncle]

Pulse welding is good on carbody steel for obvious reasons,thin metal.

[fabbyglass]

You are not really pulse welding though as they are special and expensive mig sets that do that with tricky electronics, you can't do the same by clicking away on the trigger......that in my book is called "tacking":p

[Bonzo]

If you have to fill large gaps it's either because you've blown holes in the job or the prep work is shaby, corner cutting adds to weld failure. This why all of our wishbones tubes are machine profiled with a mill not just cut on the saw and filled in.

Sorry Phil mate, I have to take exception to that statement if I may !!??

Incorrect welding procedure leads to weld failure .... Shabby fitting joints can be made good with the correct weld procedure ( Obviosly propper prep is desireable )

Your statement also seems to imply that anyone not using a milling machine to cut the compound mitres is somehow doing a shabby job, a gross insult to the folks that know how to use their tools :(

In my humble opinion, using a mill to cut the compound mitres is like using a sledge hammer to crack a nut :eek:

Nothing wrong with a simple hacksaw, bandsaw, compound mitre saw or even a grinder .... It's purely down to the users ability to make correct use of the tool in question !!??

Methinks you could do with a spell working in a dockyard doing some propper plate work, you'll soon learn how to cope with gap filling :p

BTW

Never had a ship sink yet through a weld failure :D

[fabbyglass]

Well said Ronnie a milling machine is not what I would call a "fabricators" tool it's a "machinists" tool.
I worked in a narrow boat yard and all we had to make 70ft steel hulls with was an oxy set, angle grinder and a mig.
Besides which the angles don't NEED to be spot on as it's a welded assembly.......secret tips you won't learn in any college will result in the correct dimensions


Sorry Phil mate, I have to take exception to that statement if I may !!??

Incorrect welding procedure leads to weld failure .... Shabby fitting joints can be made good with the correct weld procedure ( Obviosly propper prep is desireable )

Your statement also seems to imply that anyone not using a milling machine to cut the compound mitres is somehow doing a shabby job, a gross insult to the folks that know how to use their tools :(

In my humble opinion, using a mill to cut the compound mitres is like using a sledge hammer to crack a nut :eek:

Nothing wrong with a simple hacksaw, bandsaw, compound mitre saw or even a grinder .... It's purely down to the users ability to make correct use of the tool in question !!??

Methinks you could do with a spell working in a dockyard doing some propper plate work, you'll soon learn how to cope with gap filling :p

BTW

Never had a ship sink yet through a weld failure :D

[Talonmotorsport]

Ok Ronnie thats fair comment.
Other 5 paragraphs deleted.

[fabbyglass]

Ok Ronnie thats fair comment.
Other 5 paragraphs deleted.

If you feel the need to write something then be brave and write it but deleting it afterwards is lame....:rolleyes:

[Tilly819]

Currently I just happen to be welding 25mm by 2mm thick box in work for missile launcher trolleys and in certain places i have to pulse it rather than do a run.
just so i know when it come to my chassis assembly.
I know the pulse does not give you as much heat and penetration.

Just thought id ask what your preferred methods are?

Cheers
Dean


TIG with a foot pedal is my option in that situation, technically pulse is a machine function that raises and then lowers the current on a set time base to preset maximum and minimum current set points.

the beauty of the tig with the foot control is it allows you to keep an arc going wile you reposition your torch and or yourself to continue your weld.

however if you do not have these facilities at your disposal you current method of what i would refur to as "tacking" or if you can do a small run "stitching" may well be you only option.

hope this helps
tilly

Edit: PS if this is the case, it might be worth upping your current to help get abit more penetration





Welding is like sex, its all about taking your time and getting good penetration

;)

[baz-r]

pulse migs are a inverter based mig welders that fluctuate the supplyed power and feed eletronicly to suit the job, mainly for spasific applications and materials like thick to thin programs or in production lines etc. units come from small to massive and sometimes called synergic and weld allys real nice
programs and settings (what material,wire,gas,transfer style and thickness ) are set and the eletronics know how the arc is working and ajusts as it goes
i have demoed a few units and some have pritty cool funtions like when you tap the trigger the settings change so you can weld one continous bead but change position as you go without changing your speed or adding weve
like welding all the way around a window frame without stoping.
small basic units are now comon place in modern bodyshops with the need to migbraze boron steel bodywork on newer cars even used a migatronic that had two torches one ally one migbraze (or steel) just grab the one you want and tap the trigger and off you go.

pulse tigs on the other hand are getting very comon now and pulse the out put hi lo hi lo to minimise heat input and keep thing neater and quicker