ok here goes from what i can remember,
The front left hand of the engine(as viewed from drivers seat)was close to the chassis rail but this chassis was a narrow body compared to roadster.
The important thing is to get the sprocket mount shaft inline with the diff firstly,the engine is tipped east to west as in the bike (same angle ish),this makes the engine faces below the carbs parallel with the chassis rails on left & right side.no your carbs wont flood.(have a look at a zx9 engine in bike at a shop or breakers,will explain a lot )you can then level engine with a level for front to rear or use a piece of pipe to centre of diff and measure.
The 'v' shaped lump on the sump wants machining off level or best as to rest of sump.the main flat area of the sump on mine sat approx 50mm below chassis rail but this is governed by the sprocket to diff levelling and alignment so dont use 50mm as gospel.
I have a few pics on my laptop i can send u if u pm me your email address,i have more build pics but they are in transit with my belongings and due in december which would probably help you more which i can also scan and email u when they arrive.
hope this makes some sense?


steve

You have PM, Regarding coming to see mine, I can take you threw most of the oddities like the wires, prop and sproket adapter etc etc, mounting, ram air inlets etc exhaust

Drom me a message, im about almost all the time,

Tilly

I've been playing around with the postion of my engine and have found to get everything level and the output shaft inline I need the sump to sit above one of the lower chassis rails. Does this seem right? Have the sump level left to right also. I prefer when the sump was just tucked up against the chassis rail and sitting in the void between the 2 rails, the output shaft was then out of line though similar to a Stuart Taylor Locosaki I've been reading about



This raises the engine up and going by Handy Andy's estimate of the scuttle and nose height I will definately have carb sticking out of the bonnet let alone air filter.


The lump can be chopped off so am not to worried.

Here is a picture of how far over it is, it looks ok.


I am wondering if I should just mount it lower and to the side of the chassis rail and have a slight prop offset?
Thanks Chris

There are a few pictures in my sig that may help - albeit a 'blade engine. The prop is offset but only for a short distance until it meets the bearing/mount.
Everything fits under the bonnet but I know Tilly is having to look at a bulge or scoop for his.

I think alot of people end up with a slight offset, and get the impression it isn't as bad when the front part of the prop shaft is short going into a centre bearing or reversing box.
Would rather mount it a bit lower. Your car looks great slim I love the chassis colour. It's amazing how similar looking the fireblade engine is to my zx9r, even the rocker cover nuts and clutch cover.

This guy has his zx9 mounted at an angle front to back it is a stuart taylor locosaki the chassis is almost identical. His sump is the otherside of the rail and slightly lower.


You can see here he has an ofset on his prop.


Chris

Chris,
Just noticed you are in Derbyshire (here was me thinking Roadsters were only built up north, down south and down under!!) - happy for you to have a good look over my car. As you say, they will be similar and Tilly also is well on the way to completing his BEC build.
Tim

Grrrrr i wish my prop was that straight...... ooh err....
and yes as tim said im having to get creative with the air inlet, just in the process as i type this of designing a new 2 part airbox hoping to have the bottem half attached to the inlets and the top half to be the inside off the bonnet scoop... giving me a right headache...


What are you doing for reverse??

Tilly

Hi Tilly I have been building my engine craddle most of the weekend and missed your posts.
I was planning on doing some kind of electrical reverse like you have mentioned in the past, I really can't afford a reversing box. Did you use a smaller bike starter? and have you got any kind of speed controller on the motor? I bet you had to have the gear made to go on the diff flange.
I'll have to have a look at both yours and slims cars at some point.
Cheers Chris

Hi chris,

Yes i have a electric reverse,

Its consists of a starter moter mounted in the Transmition tunnel facing the rear of the car, onto a gear on the diff,

i built mine for £105 for comparison MK Sportcscars want £350 for theres and theres is bigger and heivier and you need to put a hole in the floor to get it to fit and they clame that you cannot get a starter moter that goes the wrong way like is nessarry, but i assure you you can, il let you now what car its off when i remember, but MK sparts cars really P*SS*D me off with this because they claimed that i had to buy theres and it could not be done any other way and there starter moter had been speshaly modified but mistacaly they could not tell me what they had done to it. really had to fight to get them to sell me the gear on its own.... i carnt understand why a company would not want to sell you something...

OK OK rant over but they really wound me up, i meen get real £350 for a gear and a starter moter.... GRRRRR

In answer to your other question no i do not have a speed control, to be honest i dont think its really nessary.

hope this helps Tilly

Some of the Japanese car engines run anti-clockwise, surely their strarter motors must also. :confused: :confused:

May be me having another senior moment though :D :D