It works so here :http://foto-uploaden.nl/img/1/k1pcj62.jpg

looks great does the throttle housing just bolt on and is there a places for the air inlet temperature sensor etc

cheers

Andy

Hi Albert

The Nippon-Denso alternator I got was from a Daihatsu Sportrak/Fourtrak.

The same unit is fitted to many vehicles of the Daihatsu range, I have also seen this type of alternator on a number of other Jap cars ;)

It'll need a wider pulley & new mounts made up. Both should be quite simple to do :)

Heres a picture, as you can see, very compact & reasonably lightweight

That all looks good Teun :cool: :)

Out of interest.

Can I ask what the length of the tubes that go into the inlet manifold are ? :)

The reason I ask is that I will making one quite soon & have read that the length of these tubes does have an effect on final performance.

I have no idea of the science of the workings of an inlet Phlenum :o

Ronnie
dont stress too much
the issues with the length of inlet runners was more related to a carb set up
with fuel injection its not such an issue its more about getting the injector close and lined up to inlet port
and it was all about ringing the most out of an engine
ie few more torque/revs/bhp at 70zillion revs
cheers les g

Ronnie, i can take some more pictures if that would help.

I would like to use a triangular configuration for the auxiliary belt in order to avoid the need for guide pulleys, like this:

I wonder how is the alternator mounted here? There are four holes in a rectangular configuration at the front part of the block exhaust side that seem to be ideal for the engine mount, but wouldn't the alternator foul them? Also, what is the alternator bracket fixed to on the pic? The holes for the belt cover on the front face of the block?

Hi Alga,

The picture looks like a Dunnell engine or similar, they use a special sump casting to mount the alternator on.

The four bolt holes you refer to are an ideal engine mounting point.

I would mount the alternator under the front carb, above the oil filter. You can still drive it with a single belt and use the alternator as the belt tensioner so you won't need any extra pulley's plus you will have more 'wrap' of the belt around the crank pulley. There's only a 1/4 of the belt wrapping round the one in the picture so it's likely to slip when the alternator is loaded.:eek:

You'll need a silver top Zetec and an Escort water pump which turns the same direction as the crank pulley (Mondeo water pump turns opposite direction as it's driven off the back of the belt as are all black top zetecs)

HTH BV

I'm well into a Megasquirt conversion and I have had a 1.8 Escort engine for SVA and now have a 2003 ST170 VVT blacktop in.

Both these ran on carbs with Megajolt previously and the 1.8 with 2L cams gave 155bhp on the rollers. ST VVT engine gave 166 but was running well lean at WOT. Oh, and the 1.8 once setup gave me 40mpg. (but not on a track day!)

Points for the conversion, Escort sumps are lower than Mondeo ones. Escort water pump runs the right way for a triangular belt set up, all others need an idler... heres mine..


For my new EFI conversion I'm using early GSXR 750 TB's and am using the original Ford injector/fuel rail set up. I welded bosses into the manifold so they pintr down the port in the same position as original.


Only other thing required for mating to the type 9 is dohc or CVH Sierra starter motor.

This was my old carb manifold...


And with carbs running Megajolt (with an EDIS unit)


Have look round my blog, not comprehensive but some pics ad descriptions are there. If in doubt, ask!

Good luck,
Steve

Hi just wondering if anyone can help.Due to a crazy registration system here in Ireland I might have to use a more modern engine with low emmisions.I am thinking of useing a 1.8 zetec with a cat.Can anyone give me advice of what system would work best as in low emmisions.Would a standard ecu and loom be an easy install or would a megajolt and edis4 be easier to set up and would it work with emmisions test