Bugger:(
Glad to see you're ok, did it cause any damage else where? I'm guessing solid mounting is the way to go now by the look of it. Which way is the diff trying to rotate looking at it from the rear out of curiosity when going forward. Well hope you get it back on the road soon. |
Nightmare mate!
Have a look at my flickr page. There should be a photo of how I have solid mounted the nose of my diff with a very big bolt. On my jollies so can provide the full link. Will post some photos when I get home David |
When the wheels are being driven forward the nose of the diff will want to pull up.
This was what I have plumped for along with some solid aluminium 'bushes' in the diff ears instead of rubbers it should keep it in place and any upward force should be directed into the cross members. I may buy a spare diff now though... :o Cheers Stot |
I think it would be advisable to use copper/nickle 90/10% brake and fuel pipes with a solid mounted diff, plain copper may fatigue easily with vibration so I have read.
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Quick thought, would an LSD be immune from the broken mounting arms ? I say this because with an LSD you get little or no spin at the drive wheels, meaning hell of a lot less vibration on the rear end & diff. :confused:
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I think an lsd would be worse, when that lets go there will be that much more power going through it.
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Looks like my propshaft is buggered too...
The UJ at the diff end can slide from side to side by half an inch or so :( |
Really gutted for you. Have you come up with a battle plan yet ?
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Current plan is: 1. Get another diff and replace the rubber mounts in the arms with solid ones. 2. Make up some solid spacers to replace the landrover mounts 3. Get a new propshaft 4. Bolt it all back together and see how long it lasts. If it seems alright I'll make a new nose mount at some point to get rid of the fake landrover mounts. |
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