Underside.

hi yep there a bit heavy :) that looks about right for and aft cant remember how far mine hangs down, I'm using the gillham bonnet with the large bulge and offset the engine to the n/s as the plenum was catching the bonnet.
check out my build pics or if you want I can take some measurements to give you some datums
Gary

If you look at skov's build diary there is a set of measurements on there.

My sump is either 40 or 50mm under the chassis rails and I haven't had any problems (yet)

David

P.s nice build

Thanks guys. My Ocd wants to keep the engine central but I have no body work to test fit so I'll try make the engine mounts future proof for now. I'm offtuesday so I'll have app at making the mounts.

If the engine was central would the mounts be a mirror image of each other?

I've had the same issue as you, with the engine as far back as poss then the clutch fouls. I've moved mine forward so the clutch has clearance, I'm glad I did. I have used part of the MX5 bulkhead and pedal assembly for my brake, clutch and throttle pedal set up. I have kept the MX5 servo as well. It gives me about 7mm clearance between the brake master and the intake manifold. Just enough I hope. (I've also used the steering column as well). I have Equinox bodywork and have about 5-8 mm clearance over the top of the engine with the engine mounted similar to yours (ish) with about 40 - 50 mm sump protruding, again ish as I haven't measured it exactly.
Ian

http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=13563

This should help you pal

Agree with this, I was worried about the clearance but it only appears to be those tiny short speed bumps the ones about 12" wide, that are an issue.

Thanks for the advice and links guys. Armed with that knowledge I was able to fit the engine today.





I couldn't find a completely satisfactory way of mounting the gearbox so the end result is a bit shocking...



The seats are ready to go in, I'm just waiting for some threaded inserts I need to weld in to the cross/support bars. Hopefully tomorrow.

The tank support/rear panel frame is tacked together and I've made a start on the steering column. I'm pushing to get the chassis complete as soon as possible before our little one arrives but I keep remembering more bits to weld onto it!

I originally set out to use a fibregalss tub but since watching a caterham factory 'how its made' I see thay still construct most of the bodywork as per the book methods.

Can any one give feedback on how hard/easy it was to contruct the rear and side panels the book way please?

I'm interested in this as I like the caterham rear ends. The lower edge of the rear tub appears higher which makes the tub look nicer. I was tempted to attempt this.

Seats!



<a href="http://s14.photobucket.com/user/ihatesissycars/media/44D7DF5A-FDF0-40CE-BE30-B5D44EEA09CE.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a311/ihatesissycars/44D7DF5A-FDF0-40CE-BE30-B5D44EEA09CE.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 44D7DF5A-FDF0-40CE-BE30-B5D44EEA09CE.jpg"/></a>

I don't know if I've buggered up somewhere but I'm certain I could fit the long angled engine bay brace tubes.





I'll need to not use the inlet manifold brace but it'll otherwise clear especially on the exhaust side.

I've also fitted the rad. I'll use a pusher fan.





I've also fitted the steering column frame and welded in the rear end and seat frames. Just waiting for a coupler before I can complete the steering.

I stupidly forgot to get the key and immobiliser box from the engines original car. It'll make wiring the engine a lot harder. I ultimately want to use a mega squirt ecu so I may go straight to that.

Hmmmm, interesting!

My sump sits 50mm below the chassis so I thought it would hinder this even more. I'm using a mk1 inlet which might make a difference.

do you have the tube dimensions for these wishbones
as im looking at the saturn plans but dont see them
i see the dims for the jigs but thats it

regards
steve

The rear lower arms I made 20mm longer than suggested by the plans as many were reporting their adjusters were wound out a long way to achieve correct geometry. I would probable revise this to only 10mm longer if I were making them again.

Rear upper arms.

They're in. They clear everything but I might have to trim back/remove the inlet support bracket lug from one of the inlet runners. I wonder how much the engine mounts will allow the engine to move as well.

Either way the front end looks a lot more stout. I might still put a cross brace in the front frame too.

Can anyone tell me what flexi hoses they used and where they put the chassis lugs for them please?

Hi Gavin good to see another mx5 build!! The strut brace you have put in on the drivers side I was told on this forum it's not needed as the mx5 uses a collapsible steering colum!?!? I would just check your height for the body work! Nice to see someone else making everything takes longer but it's defiantly bespoke good work fella keep it up!

Thanks, I didn't think the collapsible column had much to do with ommiting the brace? I beleived it was due to clashing with the inlet manifold cast brace that extends down the block. I'm leaving that out of my build so I can fit the extra chassis tube which should reduce chassis flex.

Can anyone advise on what offset 13 wheels one would fit to our cars?

I'm looking at 13x7 front and 13x8 minilites but I can't find any definite offsets used for such a wheel.

I used team dynamics 1.2 wheels ET38 I think, best to get a template of the wheels you like to be sure, what brakes are you using? 1.8 or 1.6?

I used the mx5 daisy alloys and painted them black. They are quite light wheels and basically a copy of minilites

David

Thanks for the info, I'm using mk2 1.6 brakes front and rear. 250ish mm diameter I believe.

Can you submit a car for an ova with an lsd that prohibits individual wheels brake tests?

Not sure if it helps but my car has a viscous lsd and it passed ok

David

Will that diff be damaged if spinning one rear wheel on a brake tester whilst the other is stationary?

I'm looking at the bargain Ashcroft lad but they say it's needs the accelerometer test otherwise it'll be damaged. I know that's fine with an mot test but wil Mr Iva accept that?

Chassis painted (badly) floor on and many parts cleaned via electrolysis and wire wheel.







Boxes of goodies!



I'm aiming to get the arms, uprights, calipers, discs and wheels on then finish the pedal box. I can then route the brake and fuel lines. Then it's engine and exhaust time. At least that's the order I'm aiming for.

Does anyone have a link to some 3 way brake/fuel pipe clips?

Link http://www.jetpress.com/Products.asp...eClips-Triple/

Thank you for the link.

I managed to get some 13" Team Dynamics the same as CTW's for a bargain price too. Mine are in Anthracite, I'm rather chuffed with those!

Can anyone recommend an alternative to Toyo R888's that isn't a track tyre and will come in 185/60/13 and 205/60/13?

By this I mean is cheaper but not junk.

I went with Yoko A021-R from Polley motorsports. 185/70/13. The 185/60/13s were £75+vat and the /70/ were £50+vat so worth the compromise for me.

They dont have them on their website any more but the page is still there so the may still do them.

Cheers
Stot

Thanks for the heads up stot, I'll drop them a line and see what they can do.

Does anyone know if the mx5 can be removed with the engine in situ? In the Haynes chassis not the original.

Not sure on the question, If you mean can the engine be removed with the gearbox in situ, yes with a bit of wiggling.



Cheers
Stot

Predictive text fail!

I meant the sump, can that be removed without needing to pull the entire engine?

Oh, yeah I did that too. Easy as pie.

Cheers
Stot

Ah great stuff, thank you!

Zinc/nickel plating success!



And does anyone know the bolt size to fit here?

I can't remember exactly as it'd been 3 years since I brought mine it's either an M12x1.25 or 1.5, but instead of shelling out for another two random bolts I ran a 12mm drill through them to take a standard common or garden M12 bolt.

Thanks for the tip. Much easier, I'll do that!

Brake balance?
 

Pedal box is in.

Are people fitting these?



I assume it affects brake balance?

Haven't test it yet but I have fitted it to my car - kept the MX5 servo as well. Its driving standard sierra front discs and the big (9"?) drums at the rear which I've fitted with Ka wheel cylinders with 17.3 ish pistons to make sure I don't get rear wheel lock up.
No idea if its right until I try it:confused: