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-   -   Another build thread (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=5830)

Davidbolam 1st April 2013 06:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skov (Post 89369)
It seems to run fine without, and I spent a while googling and couldn't find anything to suggest it will affect the running at all. It'll just bug me slightly knowing there's an error code sitting there :rolleyes:

I was told that you can just chop it off loop the rubber tube around to cover the holes and it will run fine however there would be an error code as skov says.

On a different note......

Have you tested to see if the brake switch in the clutch line has enough pressure to operate?

Cheers

skov 1st April 2013 08:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Davidbolam (Post 89389)
On a different note......

Have you tested to see if the brake switch in the clutch line has enough pressure to operate?

Cheers

Yep, checked it with a multimeter a while ago, and it seemed to work just fine :)

CTWV50 1st April 2013 10:00 PM

what are you using to read the error codes just an LED kit?

skov 1st April 2013 10:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTWV50 (Post 89392)
what are you using to read the error codes just an LED kit?

Yep, just an LED. Very quaint :D

Spent some more time on the wiring this weekend.
Just need to add a bit more tape and a few cable ties (both of which I've run out of :rolleyes:) and the wiring's done!

Decided to check my indicator flash rate, and was dismayed to find it was too fast for IVA (due to my bulbs drawing less current than the ones in the MX5).
Luckily someone's already figured out how to mod the flasher unit to correct it, which saved me dicking about adding ballast/correction resistors:

http://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=335534

Actually the mod was even simpler than the link above, I just needed to remove the resistor and not replace it :D

CTWV50 1st April 2013 11:36 PM

Well done finishing the loom. It's a sneaky little MASSIVE JOB!! Isn't it!

I've spent hours in the garage this long weekend. Slowly putting the loom back together. Bought a clever little wire stripper from Maplin, worth every penny of £14.99. I love it!

On another note, looking at the IVA manual. If I'm on a Q plate and I can prove the engine date. Then they assume the January before as the "Effective Date" of manufacture as it's an amateur built car and then try to fine an exact match in the analyser database. I assume they "obviously??" don't find one and as the date will be pre July 31st 1995, do a Non CAT Test? Correct?

If I can't prove date of manufacture of the engine or donor car then they assume Aug 1997 and do a CAT test using default limits?

Just asking because I know you've probably done your homework on this. :D

skov 2nd April 2013 10:11 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CTWV50 (Post 89395)
Well done finishing the loom. It's a sneaky little MASSIVE JOB!! Isn't it!

I've spent hours in the garage this long weekend. Slowly putting the loom back together. Bought a clever little wire stripper from Maplin, worth every penny of £14.99. I love it!

On another note, looking at the IVA manual. If I'm on a Q plate and I can prove the engine date. Then they assume the January before as the "Effective Date" of manufacture as it's an amateur built car and then try to fine an exact match in the analyser database. I assume they "obviously??" don't find one and as the date will be pre July 31st 1995, do a Non CAT Test? Correct?

If I can't prove date of manufacture of the engine or donor car then they assume Aug 1997 and do a CAT test using default limits?

Just asking because I know you've probably done your homework on this. :D


Thanks Chris. It certainly is a massive job, and I'm very happy to have got it out of the way :D
I shot myself in the foot with the wiring too. I thought I'd be clever and replace the fuse boxes, relays, and most of the wiring. All I really achieved in doing that was creating loads more work for myself!

That's how I understand the emissions - except for the Q-plate bit. Whether it's a Q plate or not is irrelevant; the IVA tester doesn't know and doesn't care what plate it's going to have as that's decided by the DVLA afterwards.

Provided the IVA man can't find an exact match for your car in his database (that's the car you've built, not the donor car!) the emissions will be based on the effective date of the engine.

So as long as you can prove the engine was manufactured before the end of 1995 you won't be needing a CAT.
Did you see my post about getting a proof of engine age letter from Mazda? £35 well spent!

CTWV50 2nd April 2013 10:49 AM

I did see that post and I will follow that advise for sure. Thanks for clearing that up. At least you know your loom inside out and back to front if you have a fault.:)

alga 2nd April 2013 05:01 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by skov (Post 89398)
So as long as you can prove the engine was manufactured before the end of 1995 you won't be needing a CAT.

A small correction: the cutoff date is 31 July 1995.

skov 2nd April 2013 06:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alga (Post 89401)
A small correction: the cutoff date is 31 July 1995.

That is the cutoff date, but the effective date for kit cars is moved back to the 1st of January in the year the engine was manufactured.
From the manual:

“Effective Date”
The “effective date” used to determine the criteria applicable is -
the date of manufacture of the vehicle, except for an “Amateur Built” vehicle, a “Vehicle manufactured using parts of a registered vehicle” or a “Rebuilt vehicle” it shall be 1 January immediately preceding the date of manufacture of the vehicle’s engine if this is earlier.


So the engine can be manufactured any time in 1995 and still not need a CAT test.

skov 3rd April 2013 09:38 AM

Nearly done now :D



Just need to paint my bonnet, fit the front wings, add a few bits of trim, and I should be ready for IVA :eek:


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