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-   -   Cutting GRP (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=8502)

Johno 24th September 2012 08:50 PM

Cutting GRP
 
Well I've not worked with GRP before so I'm not sure what is the best method to cut the hole out in my nosecone:confused:





Also if I make a mistake how do I repair the gelcoat?

wylliezx9r 24th September 2012 09:21 PM

Slitting disc on an angle grinder. Then tidy up with a sanding bit on a Dremel. Well that's howi did mine. Horrible stuff to cut mind you, make sure you wear a mask :)
Using above method I didn't damage any gel coat, obviously cut from the gel coat in.

wylliezx9r 24th September 2012 09:24 PM

Which body work is that by the way?

robo 24th September 2012 09:26 PM

The method I use on f/g is to mask up the area to cut and mark your lines on the masking tape. Cut the f/g with a cengar saw http://www.cengar.co.uk/pages/e-range-JP901.html leaving about 3mm from the finished line and dress the cut back with one of those sanding rolls http://greens-garage.com/images/drumsander1.jpg working along the length of the cut being carefull not to flick the gell coat off by turning the drum roll against the line. Works for me. have a couple of practice stabs at it in the middle of the panel thats coming out.

Bob

TSM Locost 24th September 2012 09:27 PM

Done a search on LCB, general opinion seems to be, Jigsaw with very fine blade, Dremmel, powerfile, some say angry grinder :-(

Just found this, use a jigsaw fitted with an abrasive blade, (not a saw blade).

Whatever you chose protect with loads of masking tape.

Must pop round one day. :)

SeriesLandy 24th September 2012 09:55 PM

I used an angle grinder with a 1mm slitting disc. Worked fine for me. Also cut from the gel coat surface and a bit of masking tape will help.
Also to cut a perfectly straight line I clamped a cheap steel rule(wilkinsons 40p ish) and cut against it with the grinder.

baz-r 25th September 2012 12:13 AM

grit face jigsaw blades work well, use an old hoover to stop dust going everywhere, i find for afterdark jobs a humdrum hacksaw is quiet cuts well and no chipping if you keep the angle low.

Wynand 25th September 2012 06:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SeriesLandy (Post 78405)
I used an angle grinder with a 1mm slitting disc.

+1

Never try to wipe the fiberglass dust off you with hands or rag :eek: Use compress air...;)

robo 25th September 2012 08:37 AM

Dont forget the dustmask and protective goggles , if you can get one of those all in one paper overalls with the hood even better. The stuff is an irritant.:eek:

Bob

MikeB 25th September 2012 09:35 AM

cutting with a short sleave t-shirt on was a bad idea, it does itch a bit!
Good to see another AGM bodied car coming on.
I've not cut my nose out yet but did the side and back panels with a angry grinder.
Did you get teh AGM side panels BTW?

Johno 26th September 2012 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeB (Post 78422)
cutting with a short sleave t-shirt on was a bad idea, it does itch a bit!
Good to see another AGM bodied car coming on.
I've not cut my nose out yet but did the side and back panels with a angry grinder.
Did you get teh AGM side panels BTW?

Hi Mike,
With regards to the side panels I've already got some made in Alu. Will see how they workout.
Have you fitted your nosecone yet? If so could you post a piccy from the side.:D
I'm curious to see if you left a gap between the front frame and back of the nosecone.

MikeB 26th September 2012 12:27 PM

Hi Jonno,

I have in as much put some rivnuts on the chassis, currently it butts up directly I had to sand a little bit off the returns in the nose next to the lower from suspension mounts as it was a very tight fit.
I'm not 100% but I think the scuttle may sit a bit further back than the other kits as I had to cut a hole for the steering column and a bit either side for the steering column brackets (other kits don't have that part of the front bulkhead built in). So I did wonder if it was sat too far forward. But it does all line up nicely with the bonnet in place, I need to rivnut the scuttle in place next, I think it should all be ok.

let me know how you get on,

Johno 26th September 2012 08:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wylliezx9r (Post 78402)
Which body work is that by the way?

Hi there....:)
It's an AGM bodykit...
Very robust in construction TBH with returns on the front and rear of the bonnet so should be able to get some tight fitment between the nosecone and scuttle.:cool:
The scuttle has a intergraded front firewall with a protrusion just below where the bonnet flange sits so you will not see a complete vertical gap from the side (does that make sense?). Same with the nosecone as well.

Johno 26th September 2012 09:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MikeB (Post 78475)
Hi Jonno,

I have in as much put some rivnuts on the chassis, currently it butts up directly I had to sand a little bit off the returns in the nose next to the lower from suspension mounts as it was a very tight fit.
I'm not 100% but I think the scuttle may sit a bit further back than the other kits as I had to cut a hole for the steering column and a bit either side for the steering column brackets (other kits don't have that part of the front bulkhead built in). So I did wonder if it was sat too far forward. But it does all line up nicely with the bonnet in place, I need to rivnut the scuttle in place next, I think it should all be ok.

let me know how you get on,

Hi Mike,
I believe if the nosecone butts upto the front chassis frame like you said it puts the scuttle further back compared to Saturns bodywork...
I plan to move the nose slightly forward of the front frame and bring the scuttle back to the transsion between the top rails (don't know rail numbers).
Got some Aero Catches on order this week (you there SeriesLandy for help:D :D ) so if I can find the motivation to work on it I might be able to show some progress soon....


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