How? Fixing the dash Panel.
 

How have peeps gone about fixing the dash panel.

I don't want any fixings on the face so need some ideas, I have some thoughts to go on but need more inspiration before starting on the actual panel.

TT

what sort of dash are you having ?

grp, or a padded dash over a wooden panel ?

Mines a padded dash , I araldited some M6 button head bolts to the panel before covering with foam then black vinyl cloth, seems to hold very well, not had any bolts break from their glued position .

cheers
andy

So you bolt it on from behind.

TT

Erm, yes, the dash panel has the bolts glued into place then I used nyloc nuts on the inside/underside of the scuttle, a little awkward to reach at first but once in place its very secure & no visible bolt heads showing in the cockpit.

I would say this tho,

If I was making a my dash again I would make it so it reaches right down to the top of the tranny tunnel panel which can also be another fixing point from behind with a little "L" shaped bracket ( a future mod I intend to do ).

Hey TT,
I started fixing my dash down last night as it happens!

I've got a plywood dash, and I'm using M6 T-nuts to fix it in place.
The bolts go in from the back and pull the dash against the scuttle.

I'll cover the dash in padding and vinyl to hide them at some point.

Skov,
Thats looking great :cool: & I also like the dash panel reaching the tranny tunnel top plate...wish I,d done that , (future upgrade for me )

Its also worth noting that depending on how one reads the IVA manual......if the dash panel is padded it doesn,t need the 19mm radius (38mm in reality) on the lower edge above where the knee,s go under the dash, I think it has to have a minimum of 5mm padding which is easier to achieve ....i used 2 layers of camping mat foam covered in vinyl.

cheers
andy

Thanks Handy!
Using camping mat sounds like a good plan, I might have to steal that idea :D

Some good pointers there...:)
Interesting to know about the padded dash versus flat dash regarding radius etc..
Is this a black and white point when it comes to inspection time or is it down to the inspector on the day?:confused:

My plan was to put a lip on the back of the dashboard that would slot into the scuttle holding it in place around the edge and then have just two lower fixings to stop it sliding down and out of engagement.

TT

I drilled through the mdf, countersunk and glued machine screws in, then added the roll mat material and covered the dash. Worked an absolute treat!



Cheers

Adrian

I guess I may be over complicating my plans.

I think I will try the fixings SKOV used.

TT

I did about the same as adrianreeve did. Chopped of bits of button heads. Countersunk and glued them in on epoxy stick.

That dash looks sweet

Any ideas for the same question but fitting a carbon sheet ?

We have this Q bond stuff in the workshop that sticks anything to plastics, We glued the heads of bolts to the back of plastic bumpers with this gear and it wont let go. Its a two part thing with a powder and glue. You could bond welding studs to the back of the dash. The carbon would let go before the stud came off, just buff up both the stud and the carbon. The only thing with this gear is its instant so make sure your in the proper place with everything.

http://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgur...QEwBA&dur=1449

http://www.camberleyautofactors.com/...ond-qb2-detail

Bob

Thanks, looks a good idea I found some on ebay they are very cheap

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CD-Weld-St...em3c cabe84cb

My only concern is that the thickness of the head will move the carbon away from the dash securing piece

use some 2mm neopreen self ahdeasive strip between the scuttle and dash

TT

I have ordered some t-nuts. :)

As Rob said or you could lose the head of the stud in the carbon to form a small pocket with a spot weld drill. It might pay to go for an 8mm stud to get a decent area to bond too. It might not pull the suface in so much when tightening with an 8mm stud

http://www.matcotools.com/ProductImages/TH7778.jpg

Bob

1st pair of t-nuts done, there will be a minor change of plan though.

trying to get the screws in from behind was a bit of a swine, so i intend to weld stud to the t-nut so that a nut will go behind instead.

the t-nuts give a solid fitting that should never break free with dismantling and reassembly.

so, some 6mm stud and a few more fixings to sort out....

TT