Running Brake Lines
 

I'm trying to work out the best way to take the brake lines around the diff and into a T Piece :confused: I wanted to run it around the top of the transmission tunnel, as I would have more clearance from the gearbox and propshaft, but I'd have to go around the handbrake plate and diff.

Has anyone got any photos of how they did it, before I make a mess of it :D Infact any pictures showing brake / fuel line routing would be great.

that was as far away from the prop as i could get it. look at it this way. if the prop gives up your have more to worry about than a brake line.

Looks good Ash, I was going to run my brakes and fuel on the drivers side, and the electrics on the passenger side. I've got some 25mm strip on the rails for fixing stuff to.

I think I'm probably worrying over little details that I'll look back on and wonder why I spent hours fretting over. I don't have a handbrake cable yet, so I'm unsure how much room that needs around the back frame. What I'm trying to avoid if fixing in a brake pipe and finding that is obstructs the handbrake / electrics / fuel pump / fuel filter / fuel lines.

hand brake cables will run over the top of the diff over the diff box frame and down to the front of the each drum. will take a picture tomorrow.

Those clico's are so handy !

Rose Joints
 

Looking great Ash :cool:

I like the rose jointed, rear camber adjusters :)

Do you happen to have the size you used to hand.

Must admit, I hadn't thought of Rose Joints & been searching for some M18x1.5 threadded bar :o

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190256901257&ru=http%3 A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.co.uk%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR40%26_tr ksid%3Dp4712.m38.l1313%26_nkw%3D190256901257%26_sa cat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

these are the ones i used. dont forget to buy lock nuts. also you will need to shorten your rear upper wishbones by 10mm. as the rose joint sticks out a bit further than the book camber adjuster.

if you decide to go for it i can sort you out 18mm dia crush tubes and packing spacers.

my plan is to use the rose joints and if they die chop off the thread and weld it to a normal type camber adjuster.

Thanks Ash
 

Cheers for that Ash, decent price too :)

Sounds like a good plan to me :cool:

As it happens, I bought two pairs of quick camber adjusters from rally design with a view to doing something to the rear .

I managed to obtain some lock nuts the other day.

The workshop is now quite a bit tidier, I can now get to the lathe :o

I'll be sure to give you a shout if ( When ) I run into difficuties :D

Hi, just jumping on the brake band wagon.

With the master cylinder sitting quite low, and some of the brake cylinders being higher than the said master cylinder, is there a chance fluid could leak back to the resevoir under gravity??

I know its a sealed system and shouldn't, unless theres a leak somewhere.

Would there be any problems with running the brake line through the top of the tunnel?? Low down seems to close to the clutch operating mechanism.

A few questions probably with easy solutions, just niggling me.

What do you mean when you say 'Through" the top? If its along the top rails, thats fine, loads of people do it, I'm doing it local to the bell housing cos of space issues around the clutch cable/fork bit. If your talking about inside the rails..... thats a fail, cos you ain't supposed to touch the chassis.

Also there won't be a problem with the design, after all look how many cars are on the road. If you have a hole in your system and its leaking, where you caliper is in relation to the master cyclinder, is going to be awfully irrelevant as your car launches its self into a field.

Hi DeeZee,

Definately routing through the tunnel, similar to Ashes but higher up long the top rails exiting just under the handbrake holes at the rear of the tunne

Low down looks good but was too close to the clutch bits.

Probably run electrics this side as well, fuel opposite (low).

I chalked up my route yesterday with my gearbox and engine in. I'm going out the master cylinder, to a bracket, with my 3 way and pressure switch on. From there it climbs up the chassis rail at the end of the footwell, down the tunnel along the top. Then a little bit of snaking till it reaches the diff.

I've lined up my engine crank to gearbox, to output, to the diff, and my bellhousing is much closer to the drivers footwell? So much so I had to trim the bellhousing down to stop it fouling. Then the clutch is going to stick out and the cable goes in there. So that leaves no space for a brake line.

Deezee....

what engine are you using?

andy

An Escort RS2000 16V, with a sump off a Sierra DOHC, going onto a type9 c/w bellhousing off a 1.8cvh Sierra.

oh ok, i was just wondering why your bellhousing needed to be so close to the chassis rail/upright?
mines the 1.8cvh engine & box & i,ve got a good 15 to 20 mm between bellhousing & the chassis :confused:

andy

My reverse switch sits past TT4 on the tunnel. I'm not sure about yours, maybe my whole gearbox and therefore bellhousing is further back? The alternative is that my chassis is wrong..... but lets gloss over that option for now :D

I'll try to get some good photos before I yank the lot back out on the weekend. I'll have to borrow my company digi compact, cos my DSLR is just WAY to big to fit in and take a picture.

yes the reverse switch was the main focus on the position of my box,
1 of the switch pins is level with the rear face/edge of TT4 so i,m soldering on the wires to the switch pins with a connector block about 3inches away to allow the box to be disconnected from the wiring, and so not needing to use the original rubber switch plug which would foul TT4.

i,m sure your chassis is spot on ;) :D

andy

I decided to stop being lazy, put my tea down, and brave the cold and darkness in the garden, to walk to the garage. If your struggling to see the gap between the footwell panel and the bellhousing, thats because its around 8mm.



I set my gearbox up based around the reverse switch clearing the tubes and the gear lever being in the correct place. I also figured it would help centralise the engine weight in the chassis? Not sure if thats a great idea or not.

:D get back to your dinner....

looking at the lower photo that explains why i have the 15 to 20mm clearence at the bell housing as the pins of the reverse switch on my box are more or less beside the TT4 , as my box is slightly further (about 10mm) forward than yours i,m shortening the gear stick so it doesn,t get too close to the steering wheel.

its good to see how others have done the install:cool:

andy

mine is the same as yours andy. my reverse switch is very close to tt4. so much so that when i removed the engine after the test fit i twatted it off and had to get a new one.

deezee have you tested your clutch? i only ask as when i had my engine/gb back that far it caused the clutch arm to hit the side of the tunnel as i pressed the pedal down.

as andy says i have a good 20mm between the bellhousing chassis.

i wish i had a pedal to press :D :o
the position was more guess work & luck, but based it on the gear stick position & the reversing switch connections.

Ash.... fancy "knocking" off the switch, tut tut :eek: :D

andy

was my own fault the engine/gb got stuck when removing it and i was getting peeeeed off. in my anger i just yanked the whole engine forward to free it off. the engine and box come out but the reverse switch got ripped off in the process.

managed to get a brand new switch for £6 so no big deal.

Ash.....

i can picture the scene :D :D

andy

No I've not :eek: I have a huge list of parts that I need to buy for my build and the clutch stuff has been well low priority, funds wise, because I didn't think it would be required until I was ready to run the engine..... after all I don't even have a prop yet.

I guess I should grab a release bearing and a cable and trial the clutch fork movement. I guess I could always shorten the clutch fork by 10mm if I had to.

i woulnt as it will be a bit too heavy. you would be better off putting a clearance crease into the tunnel pannel.

you can check it if you remove the clutch and bearing then you will be able to move the arm by hand to see if it hits.

I've got no bearing in at the mo and it clears. But its sitting on the skew, because it needs the release bearing to centralise and hold the clutch fork.