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-   -   Stots Build Thread (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12492)

Stot 31st March 2013 07:39 PM

Still waiting for some replacement parts so that I can get it rolling and wheel it to and from my other garage but I got the steering hashed out.





The cast UJ from Rally Design is poor. The holes are not in the right position to stop the splined ends from pulling out. :rolleyes: Ill try opening them up to allow a bigger bolt or buy the pressed steel version.

Cheers
Stot

will_08 31st March 2013 10:01 PM

Looking good pal,

1 question the plate your steering column bearing is mounted to, is that still 1mm as per the book or have you beefed it up a bit?

I'm just about to tackle that bit is all.

Cheers Will

Stot 31st March 2013 10:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by will_08 (Post 89370)
1 question the plate your steering column bearing is mounted to, is that still 1mm as per the book or have you beefed it up a bit?

Its a 3mm piece, 1mm would flex like buggery under braking.

Cheers
Stot

alga 31st March 2013 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stot (Post 89371)
Its a 3mm piece, 1mm would flex like buggery under braking.

Do you plan to attach your master cylinder or the pedal pivot to it?

Stot 31st March 2013 11:19 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alga (Post 89372)
Do you plan to attach your master cylinder or the pedal pivot to it?

I have made up a pedal box so it will bolt in like the book. The CP17 side panel is 1mm on mine. I wouldn't want to be bolting the pedal box to that. :eek:

Cheers
Stot

alga 1st April 2013 01:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stot (Post 89373)
I have made up a pedal box so it will bolt in like the book. The CP17 side panel is 1mm on mine. I wouldn't want to be bolting the pedal box to that. :eek:

Don't forget that the pedal box is also bolted to the floor, it's resting against the bottom chassis rail, and the MC is just a couple of millimetres above said rail. I used 1 mm plate as per book, and I think it's perfectly adequate. If you're unconvinced, 1.5 mm plate will definitely do the job, and 3 mm is just 1 kg of extra weight in the chassis.

Stot 2nd April 2013 09:41 PM

Back to the dials...

I think the MX5 Nutz guy is stopping doing them as the emails went dry. So I did a little digging and found a guide on making them yourself, although the guide has been taken down now as people were stealing the guide writers designs.

Laser print a front, middle and back on acetate and paper.


Stick them together with a spray glue.


cut them out.


Stot 2nd April 2013 09:44 PM

Add holes for the screws and locators


Cut out the odometer window with a craft knife.


Draw round the inside of the window with a black sharpie to hide the white edge.



Stot 2nd April 2013 09:47 PM

Don't forget to cut the middles out like I did.


This is how I popped off the old dial hands. levering against my fingers not the back of the dial.


As I changed where the 0 position was, I needed to remove the three tell tale lights so the whole tacho dial would illuminate.


Stot 2nd April 2013 09:48 PM

Put the dial hands back on.


Daylight


Night time


Came out nice I thought. :D

Cheers
Stot


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