Well done on all counts Simon especially the degree,well worth the effort.;)
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Bob, the F/G and aluminium is all getting vinyl wrapped gloss red, you can see I have already done the scuttle and one of the rear arches. I will be giving my nose cone, bonnet and other rear arch to a professional wrapper to do as it is a real pain in the backside and I don't have the skills to do it to the standard I want.
Thanks very much flyerncle, it'll be a proud day when I collect my scroll in July. |
It's a good feeling Simon,been to two at city hall with the daughter and the dragon,both got degree's.:eek:
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Well my battery tray arrived which give me the issue of where to mount it and the best solution I came up with since I have installed a foot rest in my passenger footwell was to move my header tank to the front of the car under the nose cone and mount the battery tray on the bulkhead which seems to have worked well. It has actually reduced the complexity of my cooling circuit and has made it a neater install.
I've also installed my rear view mirror which is near to useless (could really do with a convex mirror) but should hopefully get me through IVA. My carbon aeroscreen still needs a lot of work doing to it and I am still undecided if I will be vinyl wrapping it or not as it is pretty poor quality with looks of imperfections. I will see how I feel about it when it is fixed in place and with some edge trim. I have also sikaflexed and fibreglassed my cycle wings to the wing stays and once the epoxy cures I will put them back on and then the wings just need a polish and some edge trim and they will be complete. My next job is to finish off the cooling system, I am just trying to locate all of the bits I require. I also need some more dremel accessories to aid me in finishing my aeroscreen. |
Hi Tatey,
Do you have a better picture of the headlight problem from underneath? By what you are saying I'm guessing the wire passes through the thread and stops you from using a socket (are they SVC lights?) If that is the case I have the same setup and no way can you use a spanner.:( But I might have a solution if the above is the problem.. I've bought a long reach socket which I intend to cut the bottom 1/2" drive off. Then I'm going to cut a slot all the way down the socket to allow the wires to pass through. On the bottom of the socket I'm going to weld on a large nut also with a slot in. This way I can tighten the nut (with the wires hanging out the bottom of the socket) with a spanner on the tacked on nut. You just need to leave enough spare cable to pass through the socket. That's what I plan to do on my lights (not tried it yet though but have bought the socket):eek: Sorry but did that make any sense....:eek: ps... cars looking good..:cool: |
Johno they are SVC and yes the cables going through the thread is dropping me using a socket. Modifying a deep socket sounds like a good plan, have you tried dissembling the lights to remove the wires allowing a normal socket to be used? I tried to the other day but couldn't find my 3mm Allen key.
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you are not half plodding away there Simon keep it up mate. |
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I was able to pull the wires back into the light and tighten the nut fine. The main reason for trashing the socket was when it came to setting the lights up. If I left enough slack in the cables inboard of the chassis I could alter the lights angle without removing the wires, just perhaps only cut a few cable ties. It would be a pain disconnecting the wires each time just to set them up..:) |
Kev I would thread the wires through the socket but since using the superseal connectors it wouldn't be possible as the connector is very large, I need to cut a small slot in my headlight brackets to allow me to take off my headlights in the future. Ill do some head scratching tomorrow and see if I can come up with any solutions.
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