2 quick questions
 

Hi guys. Haven't done much on my build for a few days because i'm waiting for bits.

Just been plannning wiring, anyone know how close to the fuel pipes i'm allowed to run the cables, is there a minimum distance?

Also, i've been having a nightmare trying to shorten my sump - I've cut it, welded a plate on but there's a little bit that goes damp when i fill it with water. No matter how many times i grind it back and re-weld, it still goes damp when filled with water. (doesn't actually drip). If i run a bead of tigerseal or silicone on the inside, will this do anything to the oil?

If so, does anyone know of a shortend zetec or cvh sump for sale anywhere? Needs to be about 6" top to bottom.

Thanks all

Dave

would rtv siliconne sealant work ? or gasket seal ? i used to stick a series mini engines together with rtv to stop the bl design (seive) leaking :)

presume whatever you seal it with needs to be oil resistant hylomar gasket seal sounds best to me how bigs your wet patch ?

Personally I would persist with the welding - or put the sealant on the outside. It only takes a small bit of sealant to black the pump. The garage down the road from me got a really nice wedge TVR cheap becuase it ran roughly. Previous owner had spent £800 at a TVR specialist trying to get it fixed but gave up. New owner decided to fit a new fuel pump. On taking the old one out of the tank he found it had been fitted with copious amounts of sealant - which had squeezed into the tank and blocked the fuel line. Tank clean out and blow through the fuel lines and runs like a dream now - even made the Le Mans classics and back in one piece - impressive for a TVR :p

someone on locostbuilders said araldite. Should work in theory??

i use stuff at work called powermix its german and good for everything ! not sure if its on general sale tho
:D

interesting how sealant from the sump would end up in the fuel tank ? or am i having a stoopid moment ?

stoopid moment or not reading !!
:confused:

bad night bad news not paying 100% attention sorry :o

If you get stuck David bring the sump in here on Saturday when you come for your scuttle, we will give it a try on the mig on 3 phase - should give a smoother more continuous seam.

AndyH

the wiring should be ok to run down the tunnel with the fuel pipes.
if i were doing it i would run the wiring loom in convoluted tubing wrapped with tape and on the opposite side to the fuel pipes. makes no odds but keeps space taken up more even. just avoid sharp edges and moving parts as best you can

I used chemical metal on the outside of my sump

I,ve run my fuel line along the bottom of the tranny tunnel, brake line along the top & electrickery :eek: :D at the top on the opposite side to the brake line,
basically put as much space between the fuel & electrics as possible, taking into account as "Tex " has mentioned on moving parts & the route past the diff.
Also, my electrics are totally enclosed in convoluted (sp) tubing thru the tranny tunnel area from the fuse box to the rear of the car then spurred off to each side for rear lights etc.

Don,t forget to ensure you use the correct spacing for attaching the various pipes & electrics when attaching to the chassis, IVA man will check that (I believe its 100mm maximum between the "P" clips within the tranny tunnel).

Hope this helps.

cheers
andy