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-   -   Steveh1's build (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=13647)

SteveH1 26th October 2015 09:15 PM

Painted my vice

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

and built a bench
ive always wanted a steel bench

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Vice on bench

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

SteveH1 26th October 2015 09:25 PM

Then i got working on on the transmission tunnel

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Most of the tunnel tacked in place

SteveH1 26th October 2015 09:29 PM

And the view from the drivers seat

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

made me a bit giddy :D

SteveH1 1st November 2015 09:27 PM

Got a bit done on the rear suspension this weekend

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Also got my first chassis plate cut

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

And my beautiful distraction

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

SteveH1 7th November 2015 09:52 PM

So i was given this roll bar its a standard caterham 7 bar

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

So my plan is to cut off the original mountings on the thick bar and put a flat bar plate on each end.
Then make a plate the same as cp3 and cp4 and mount them 50mm higher straight above cp3 and cp4 with nuts welded on the inside
Like build a box if this makes sense 50mm high

can anyone see a problem with this

Can i then weld 50mm box section between these boxes with the seat belt anchorage's welded into this bar

SteveH1 15th November 2015 09:23 PM

Ok so im not sure what to do about the roll bar

so i started making some of the chassis plates and despite what people were saying about just buying them laser cut i actually found the fabrication of these plates very rewarding and satisfying maybe its because there is a bit more work involved or maybe its because i saved money who knows.

so i got these drill bits a while ago its amazing the difference a good drill bit makes

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

i also got these during this week

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

m18x2.5 bar

SteveH1 15th November 2015 09:38 PM

So not sure what to do About the roll bar so when making cp3 and cp4 i cut the roll bar end plates and drilled them on top of each other so they are an exact match

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

both plates drilled
Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

both plates nuts welded
Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

SteveH1 15th November 2015 09:45 PM

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

flyerncle 16th November 2015 04:46 PM

If you have the means to do it,cut a hole in the roll bar plates and put roll bar through it and weld it,it will pull like a bast*rd when you do weld it

SteveH1 16th November 2015 09:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyerncle (Post 102363)
If you have the means to do it,cut a hole in the roll bar plates and put roll bar through it and weld it,it will pull like a bast*rd when you do weld it

like the main bar will pull towards the centre
and surley welding it to a flat plate would be better than a plate with a big hole
not really sure what you mean

flyerncle 17th November 2015 09:02 AM

Put the tube partially into the central hole you make in the middle and weld both sides,much stronger.

Put at least 10 mm bolts through roll bar mounts and not book nuts and bolts,domed plated 12.9 cap screws look much better.

Just a suggestion and personally I am happier with it.

Westfield use one bolt through the base of the tube !!!!

SteveH1 17th November 2015 11:58 AM

Ah i get you now thanks

SteveH1 2nd December 2015 08:57 PM

Ok so got a bit more of the rear all tacked up

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Also got the cabling i need to supply the welder properly

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Rosco 3rd December 2015 08:11 AM

getting there now pal

SteveH1 3rd December 2015 08:21 AM

Yea its slow going but im in no rush.
I was all set it get a good few hours done last weekend then i woke up on friday night and felt like i had poked myself in the eye.
Long story short i got steel in my eye during the week in work and never noticed
And it took the doc half an hour with a needle to scrape the rust out not a pleasent experience.

SteveH1 5th December 2015 11:05 PM

I got a few hours this afternoon in the shed.
So i started on the rear panel rails and it was something i wasn't particularly looking forward to as i didnt know anyone with the capability of bending the tubes so i had to notch the tubes to get them to bend
I was also worried about trying to get the two of them to match
So i welded the two tubes together temporarily cut the notches and bent the tubes together
This worked quiet well it also ensured that the two bends were perpendicular

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr
Not the nicest to look at

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

SteveH1 5th December 2015 11:06 PM

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

TalonMotorFabrication 6th December 2015 07:44 PM

If you know a plumber you can bend 22x1.5mm ERW tube in a Rothenburger tube bender quite nicely.

SeriesLandy 6th December 2015 09:42 PM

I used my dads electrical conduit bender for my rear tubes.
Then I cut them off and put them in the bin as I ended up with a grp rear tub. (Vmax)

SteveH1 6th December 2015 10:19 PM

Dont know any plumbers.
Ordered a cheap bender on amazon so ill give that a try.

Does the the grp rear not fit with the bars in place.

SteveH1 6th December 2015 10:26 PM

Have a duplicate thread on another Forum and some one posted this
I like old school ideas like this.

On bending tubes, my rollcage builder used to pack the tube full of dried silica sand , and plugged the ends with wooden tapered "corks" he'd then redden the whole bend but apply more heat to the outside of the radius, it was unbelievable to see the tube curl around Even as far as 90 degrees. Just make sure the sand is super dry though for safety reasons and packed tight by banging on the ground to force in as much sand as possible.

SeriesLandy 7th December 2015 08:14 AM

The vmax ( gillham, nts, Saturn, fabby) body kits use 3 bits of 25mm box at the rear in place of the rounded bars.
I'm sure I read that one of the others (maybe Equinox) leave the rounded tubes in place.

With regard to the shrinkage on the roll bar. If you weld in the harness tube before doing the plates it should help stop it.

SteveH1 7th December 2015 11:01 AM

Ok thanks for that

norton 8th December 2015 03:30 PM

I obtained my rear hoops and rp3/d13 from http://www.oweneng.com/shop-1/kit-car-products/

They're a perfect fit with all the tube ends profiled basically ready weld on.

SteveH1 8th December 2015 08:08 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by norton (Post 102486)
I obtained my rear hoops and rp3/d13 from http://www.oweneng.com/shop-1/kit-car-products/

They're a perfect fit with all the tube ends profiled basically ready weld on.

Cheers
Its just normally quiet expensive to get bigger stuff like that sent to ireland
I think ill keep the hoops anyway regardless of what rear tub i use
Just for the extra crash protection if nothing else

SteveH1 5th January 2016 08:15 PM

Time for a bit of an update
Didnt get much as i would have liked done over christmas but not to worry

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr
Conditions weren't ideal but got a good deal on the parts i needed and didnt have to strip it in the driveway

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr
Wiring

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr
Drive and steering shafts

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr
prop and diff

SteveH1 5th January 2016 08:44 PM

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr
gearbox and manifolds

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr
Wheels

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr
More wires

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And engine
1994 1.8
Came apart a lot easier than expected
but my god the amount of wiring it had abs and airbags

So how do people mount the diff on the upper mounts
whats best to keep the rubber mounts or hard mount it
is there there anywhere manufacturing hard mounts

also are people deleting the erg and charcoal canister

garyt 5th January 2016 09:25 PM

great work :) and yes there is miles of wiring (hope you labelled it all )
re the erg and charcoal canister , most bin these bits ( I didn't use them)
re the outer diff mounts, 2 choices really either a new talon diff mount or if keeping as is then hard mount it you will need to get inserts made, there was a build thread that detailed them (stot's or skov's build thread if I remember rightly) getting the old ones out is a pain
no stopping you now :)

SteveH1 6th January 2016 12:37 PM

Ah there always seems to be some thing stopping me at the moment.
Conditions wernt great while stripping so didnt label at the te but have since done it.
Im building to the saturn plans so ill just hard mount the origional diff so.
Just need to find someone that makes the mounts.

SteveH1 10th January 2016 10:27 PM

Ok so these diff mounting plates have been a bit of a mental stumbling block for a couple of weeks now so im glad i have them done now

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr
checking its square

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr
does this look about right

SteveH1 10th January 2016 10:38 PM

so i had a few of these
Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

garyt 11th January 2016 07:42 PM

good to see you making progress and yes it looks right, the diff flange sits way over to the o/s as yours is, and yes I sometimes need some refreshment similar to yours ..lol

SteveH1 11th January 2016 09:31 PM

Cheers

So ive read in other threads about problrms with lower diff mounts on the mx5 diff
so do you think this would be up to the job

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

garyt 11th January 2016 09:40 PM

it really is the whole mounting setup , the arms and the nose. they all need to be hard mounted , so yes what you have there will work for the nose and then you need to sort the arm mounts.....

SteveH1 11th January 2016 09:41 PM

Yea i intend to get inserts made to hard mount it at some point but that money is better spent at this stage
cheers

CTWV50 11th January 2016 10:58 PM

Mines all poly bush mounted. But what you have done looks solid enough ! :)

SteveH1 24th January 2016 09:15 PM

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Had a bit of a blonde moment on saturday so i decided it probably best to stay away from the car

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Got these finished up today

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr
does this position work for the hand brake or does it interfere with anything

Rosco 24th January 2016 09:18 PM

Haha pmsl how did you manage that?

SeriesLandy 24th January 2016 09:19 PM

Isn't it meant to be behind the tunnel cross tube (further to the rear)?
Also get it as low as you can. I would like mine to be about 10mm lower (Sierra, book spec)

Ps it's been a long time since I looked at the book.

SteveH1 24th January 2016 09:36 PM

Yea it looks like it is in the saturn plans but it seems quiet far back rom what i can see plus you have to cut the cable then so does this cause problrms for the iva


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