The old Saab ones are a T3 flange as it goes but the specs are very T25 like. I would have definitely got a 200SX one if the manifold were T25.

At the moment I don't know how good my engine is so Ill probably go for something mild to keep me interested and get a second engine I can rebuild over winter/spring to take up into the 200s.

Cheers
Stot

May I suggest that you get your turbo rebuilt ? Not trying to be a damp squid, but if there is play in the turbo shaft, the impeller may catch the housing, sending fillings into the bores. Engine rebuild time. Also if the seals go, it will drink oil, and smoke like hell.:eek: Just don't want your mood dampened by a turbo failure. Excellent job on the car, well done. :D

Damp squid, lol Don't put it on a pedal stool.

That was the plan. I thought i would buy it dirt cheap to see if it fits, and if it does, rebuild it and I have a genuine Garrett at the price of a Chinese copy.

To be fair there is a little play in it but there is no oil in it and nothing is touching/rubbing. No marks in the compressor housing at all. Thats not to say the seals aren't going but when its got oil in it and the shaft is floating in the bearings the play may be negligible.

I'm going to fit a Golf TDI intercooler into the nose cone so if the turbo ever does crap out nothing should make it into the engine.

Cheers
Stot

When I rebuilt mine there was still a little play in the shaft and that was with new bearings so you are correct Andrew there indeed does need to be some play for the shaft to 'float'..... no play would soon lead to failure as the metals expanded due to heat.

All turbos have play in the shaft I'm sure on the web there is tolerances somewhere it allows for heat expansion but I go by if it's not touching the sides it's fine to wind up!!

Well back to the IVA stuff. I got a lot off the list today.

One of the things I hadn't fastened properly was the AFM and air filter so I made up some brackets for it.




Not an ideal place I know but it will do.

Also my shock tops. As you can see below the way the spring end was was causing trouble. I turned the spring and put a single piece of CV boot corrugation on the top of it. The rest of the spring is fine so that should do it.

I also had a length of wires going to the gearbox that wasn't secured at 300mm. I drilled a small hole through the rib on top and secured it to that.



My headlights had some radius issues too. I added some piping but I had to add an extra large washer to give the piping something to grip to. I made a washer that could slide under rather than de-wire everything.

Also made some addons to my headrest. I started by making a copy of the tool they used to measure.



I got the point of the 'arbitrary' 136x53mm block when they were using this. The position is roughly where the base of your spine is when you are seated.

Standard position was just a little low,



so I wrapped a piece of wood in foam and leather and screwed it on to the bottom of the headrest. Added some fuel hose as bumpers to stop it being able to click in position too low and voila, higher than 700mm and a gap no larger than 25mm.




I also filed my side indicators and they are now greater than 2.5mm radius. Probably going to have to swap the front indicators to something else though unless I can find some 3/4 round edge rubber or something.

edit: Im going to try some of this heavy duty heat shrink tubing. One or two layers should bring the radius at the front edge of the unit up to over 2.5mm.

Cheers
Stot

Done my list now except the headlight aim and the front indicators.

Covered the exhaust clamp with heat wrap.



and tightened the handbrake cables on the calipers.



Course originally I checked these when the handbrake was on so the felt tight, with the hand brake off though it was obvious they were loose.

Still got next weekend to come up with some ideas for the indicators if the shrink wrap doesn't work. Headlight aim we can do at the retest.

Cheers
Stot