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-   -   Welding Methods for Chassis (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=5021)

acra 17th September 2010 03:43 PM

Welding Methods for Chassis
 
Hi guys, I've got another pre-pre-plan stage question. I'm set in the idea of taking on the challenge of welding my own chassis (cutting material and welding), and wondering what method would be best to use before I get started on a course.

Basically, from what I can gather there are two methods that would be in my price range: MIG and Stick.
TIG from what I can gather is too expensive for a single build, and brazing techniques are inadequate unless using bronze brazing (expensive).

Stick is something I can learn cheaper, as I have a relative who is willing to teach it, plus lend the welder.
MIG, from what I can gather is more reliable/easier to get a good penetration weld.

Is it still possible/safe etc to use Stick to weld a chassis?
Last thing I'd want is to have a weld destroy itself mid corner, but if it's just a matter of getting more training, I'm willing to spend the extra time to get it right.

Since I'm still in my apprenticeship, the actual build is potentially not happening for another two years, so that's potentially two years of practice welds and training to get on with!

big_wasa 17th September 2010 04:12 PM

Get hold of the best mig you can. You want around 150A and to be fan cooled.

MMA or stick welding is not easy for 1.5mm thick steel.

You can teach yourself with some offcuts and some practise. There are plenty on here and lcb that will give you pointers if you post the pics and some may even give you an hour or so of ther time and show you.

acra 17th September 2010 06:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by big_wasa (Post 45048)
Get hold of the best mig you can. You want around 150A and to be fan cooled.

MMA or stick welding is not easy for 1.5mm thick steel.

You can teach yourself with some offcuts and some practise. There are plenty on here and lcb that will give you pointers if you post the pics and some may even give you an hour or so of ther time and show you.

I thought that's probably the best way to go...
Only reason really I'd go Stick is that my Granddad is willing to teach me, and what with his experience I'd really gain from it - he was a Royal Engineer, then set up his own large fabrication business, so definitely one to learn from!

Though I've not actually asked yet if he could teach me MIG, so I may have to chat with him this weekend...

Apologies if posting links is frowned upon, I have no affiliations - but is this a recommended/suitable choice? This

Trif 17th September 2010 08:40 PM

I cut and welded my chassis using a a metal cutting bandsaw and mig. I'd never used a mig before, but having talked to welder friends I was convinced that it wasn't too difficult to learn. I bought a 150A fan cooled machine and sat down one weekend with a pile of 1" box off cuts and by the end I'd cracked it. The one thing I found that helped more than anything else was an auto darken visor, it was worth every penny. The metal cutting band saw was from a previous project and made the cutting of the parts a doddle. Accurate angles and lengths made the assembly and tacking fairly straightforward. The finish welding caused a few backtracks but the finished chassis came out to the mm thanks to the excellent cutting list in the book.

acra 17th September 2010 08:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Trif (Post 45070)
I cut and welded my chassis using a a metal cutting bandsaw and mig. I'd never used a mig before, but having talked to welder friends I was convinced that it wasn't too difficult to learn. I bought a 150A fan cooled machine and sat down one weekend with a pile of 1" box off cuts and by the end I'd cracked it. The one thing I found that helped more than anything else was an auto darken visor, it was worth every penny. The metal cutting band saw was from a previous project and made the cutting of the parts a doddle. Accurate angles and lengths made the assembly and tacking fairly straightforward. The finish welding caused a few backtracks but the finished chassis came out to the mm thanks to the excellent cutting list in the book.

I remember having a go with all the welding techniques in school - my favourite was TIG, I was pretty bad at the other two :(
But practice should help! And naturally I'm not gonna take on the task without being sure I'm good enough.

I used an autodarken mask, and a regular one (as well as one of them old style hand held ones (!)) and definitely loved the autodarken!

Trif 17th September 2010 09:11 PM

sounds like your starting from a better level than I was at, go for it, it's part of the fun!

locostkiwi 17th September 2010 09:21 PM

ive been a welder for the past 20 years
im welding my chassis 25x25 shs 1.6 thickness, using a 170 amp single phase mig, gas im running will be carbon dioxide, ( use plenty of anti splatter spray ).
For all my front and rear end suspension parts, ill use mig to tack them up but over here in New Zealand all final welding of suspension parts MUST be tig welded up then crack tested.
Also we arent allow to weld the steering shaft MUST be splined and pinched bolted to the universals.
hope this helps

acra 17th September 2010 10:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by locostkiwi (Post 45074)
ive been a welder for the past 20 years
im welding my chassis 25x25 shs 1.6 thickness, using a 170 amp single phase mig, gas im running will be carbon dioxide, ( use plenty of anti splatter spray ).
For all my front and rear end suspension parts, ill use mig to tack them up but over here in New Zealand all final welding of suspension parts MUST be tig welded up then crack tested.
Also we arent allow to weld the steering shaft MUST be splined and pinched bolted to the universals.
hope this helps

That does help mate, it's interesting the regulations you have for welding, but a good idea I think. What level of crack testing do you have to conform to? I can do surface crack detection (dye-penetrant Non-destructive testing) but unless I get my hands on some of the fancy gadgets I can't do sub-surface myself, and we don't test for cracks to my knowledge.

Out of interest, would you reckon that Tig produces a better weld, if suspension has to be Tig?

locostkiwi 17th September 2010 10:50 PM

for non destructive testing i will get my A arms etc.. X-rayed,
cost is about NZD$40/item.
My personal opinon is that TIG welding does do a better weld than MIG, but i have seen people TIG weld and it looks like s**t, by the way I,m getting my arms etc.. TIG welded by a real pro at it. im not that good at TIG welding so will leave it to experts..:D

7even 19th September 2010 04:07 PM

Hi all :)

so this wont be any good then ??

http://www.aldi.co.uk/uk/html/offers...uys3_15678.htm

I have built a GBS Zero and enjoyed it sooo much...

Now I want another challenge :D

Many thanks Mike


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