Where does this go?
 

What is this wire for? Its on the loom between the battery connections and the steering column


and this one, its on the loom by the alternator & crank sensor, next to the lamda sensor

The first photo looks like it is just a general earth wire, is it a brown wire under the black protective sheath? if so I,d suggest attaching it to the chassis .

But then again..... I hate electrics so maybe talking a load of tosh :o :D

cheers
andy

So would it be safe to say any brown wires with a circle type connection at the end will just be earths that should be attached to the chassis (eg like the lights and the bundle of 4-5 by the fuse box)? Also is it safe to attach more than one earth to the same bolt?

The first one looks like an earth wire (as HandyAndy said).....I think.
The second one looks like a connection on to one side of the coil....I have a the I4 engine and the coil connection looks like that.....
You can put more than one earth wire on a connection.
Hope this helps.

Shaun

Yep collumn earth an +12v ignition feed for the coil,

TT

Ok so that's one down with the earth. Not sure what you mean about the +12v ignition feed for the coil though as I'm a bit of nub when it comes to this... Do I put it on something like the starter or where does that connect onto? My engine was a cvh cfi (injection)

The 12v ign feed will come from the ignition switch, not sure which terminal. Should be live when the key is in the run position. Hope this helps.

Shaun

you should have an ignition coil with + - connections, but looks like your missing the filter as you need a female fitting not the male one.

Hmm total nub questions then, what does the ignition coil look like?? Is that the same thing as the coil pack? I don't remember having anything over that side of the engine other than the alternator, starter motor, & power steering pump?

Metal cylinder , appx 15cm long , 5cm diamiter, with spark plug king lead. Found on inner wing.

TT

Hmm don't remember seeing anything like that, does it matter that mine was a distributorless setup(1.8 cvh R6A)?

Your probably right on that, can't say i have ever paid a vast amount of attention to the 1.6CVH setup.

Do you have the coilpack?

That fitting may well be superfluous on that car, I think it's part of the body loom and not the engine loom so would be present regardless of engine.

Coilpack will get it's +12V from the engine loom.

TT

Ya I've got a coilpack. Pretty sure the part in question was connected to something though as I labeled & numbered it but now can't find the corresponding number on my pile of bits :( If it is superfluous, any idea what else I won't have connected to be able to turn the engine on?

It may feed the coilpack, if so there would be a matching plug in the loom.

Are you still using the CFi? if so you will need the ECU and all the sensors connected. The engine loom is standalone from the main body loom, connecting via 3 plugs 4,6,8 pin behind the battery.

TT

No I've ditched the CFi and put bike carbs on as the CFi manifold didn't fit very well. I was under the impression I could ditch everything connecting into the CFi manifold except the fan switch and coolant temp sender for the dash? Was planning on posting those connections as well though mind you once I worked out the alternator side connections.

use that wire to feed the Megajolt +12v Ignition supply and Coilpack +12V Ignition supply.


I have just bought a set of ZX6 carbs for a bit of a play, but I should be able to retain the 1.8 Ignition system.

TT

True, as long as you have a megajolt ecu connected to your edis

Initially you can run on the edis alone at fixed timing to get it running though and check everything works

So will it be possible to start the engine without the megajolt or original ecu and just the edis?

Do you have an EDIS module as well as the coilpack? Not suer if the cfi has the EDIS embedded in the ECU.

TT

Yup I've got an EDIS connected onto the loom (just sitting on a top rail at the moment) and a coilpack bolted onto the block and connected as well. I was hoping to be able to start it in limp home mode without the original ecu or the megajolt connected. But when I turn the ignition nothing happens at the moment and the dash lights don't come on. The dash does have power though as mine was a low spec and had a clock instead of rev counter and this ticks round.

If the dash lights don't even come on then your missing a power feed of the battery or an earth.

It should fire without the ECU.

TT

Any suggestions as to where to look for the power feed? I'm pretty sure I've got all the earths stuck into the end of chassis rails for testing purposes.

Do you get +12v at the ignition switch?


TT

No idea to be honest, what does that look like and where would it be on the loom, and how do I check?

Ok so I had another dig around the loom and I found the female connection for the picture above, it was on the section of the loom next to the headlight so I'd been looking in the wrong spot :S I still don't get dash lights or ignition though so I've taken some pictures of the other bits I'm unsure of:

Exhibit A (has what looks like some vacum tubes attached)


Exhibit B (this makes a clicking sound when the main battery negative is first connected)


Exhibit C

A: - Electro Valve , probably the canister purge valve. Not realy necessary.

b: - MAP sensor,

C: - Dirty Old Man ( Indicator Flasher )

TT

Exhibit D


This also will make a clicking sound when the wire below (also mentioned in previous posts above) touches the negative on the battery.


I thought this was worth a try as I found a picture I took of the battery negative in the donor before I disconnected it and its the only wire I could find on the loom that looked like it.

PS.. B Should not be clicking, it's most likly the relay in the fuse box.

TT

Hmm so skimming through the haynes service manual and I'm guessing the edis is the ignition switch in my setup? If so how do I test it's getting power? any other ideas what might be wrong?

D is a relay, don't recognise it out of context. Has it got any writing on it?

TT

It's on the loom next to the ecu plug and I'm pretty sure it said something about engine management on it

Could you remove that link, this site is provided by haynes and posting up copytheft material is not going to be liked by them.


What colour wires do you have at the ignition switch, do you have a multimeter?

TT

Ahh right, if it's clicking when you earth that tag then the tag should be earthed. Not sure off hand if it should be to the battery , But there's only ~5 earth points on a sierra anyway. does not realy matter where they are but on the donor there is usualy one at the base of each front door pillar ( although some cars may not have on on one side) one on the steering column support, one behind each headlight and and perhaps one at the battery ( but I can't remember)


TT

Link removed, sorry forgot about that. I have got the book in the garage but was being lazy... Ya I bought a cheap multimeter from wilks the other day to help with this but don't really know how to use it yet :S It mentioned though the other lead going onto the battery neg was some sort of service adjustment cable to do with the throttle I think?

The service lead would not be a permenant fixture but a ford workshop tool, I doubt the CFi has one as it would have the efi self test socket.

does the meter say Autoranging, or does it have a lot of settings on the dial. Your looking for DC Volts ( there may be a button to switch from AC to DC. And if it's not autoranging you want the 20V range if it has one.

Connec the black probe to the COM on the meter and to the battery negative. connect the red lead to the V+ if it has one (NOT THE AMPS socket) it may be called something similar.

Then touch the red probe on each of the terminals on the back of the ignition barrel and report back with the wiring colours..

Which May be...
Yellow
Red
Black
Black blue

http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/draper-...KIXJK g%3D%3D

TT

The one I got looks exactly like this http://www.wilkinsonplus.com/measure...FJ6uMQ% 3D%3D but its made by corelectrics instead of rapitest. according to the instructions it does a dc voltage measurement, ac voltage measurement, dc current measurement, resistance measurement and a diode test. It has a 2, 20, 200, & 500 volt settings. So I set to 20 dc volts and touch the wires on the edis with the red probe but I'm not sure what you mean by putting the black probe in the com on the meter and the battery negative and red to v+?

Flick switch to second from left

-------
- - - -

Rotate nob to 20V


looks like it must have fixed probes?

TT

Black lead to battery negative,

Red lead in sequence to each of the ignition switch positions.

TT

Ya the leads are fixed I guess as they're just wires coming out of the meter with metal spikes on the end so to speak. So just to make sure I've got it right though, I'm testing all the wires that plug into the edis module or the bundle of wires that connect to where the key turns?