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-   -   Steveh1's build (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=13647)

SteveH1 24th January 2016 09:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rosco (Post 102861)
Haha pmsl how did you manage that?

I think the sleep depravation from the baby is starting to catch up with me.
But it gave me a good laugh.

SeriesLandy 24th January 2016 09:39 PM

You will have to cut the cable anyway. In its position on the plans it makes a nice arm rest as I have my seat all the way back

SteveH1 24th January 2016 09:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SeriesLandy (Post 102865)
You will have to cut the cable anyway. In its position on the plans it makes a nice arm rest as I have my seat all the way back

Fair enough
Have you a link to the seats you used
Thanks

SeriesLandy 24th January 2016 09:55 PM

The old style cobra seven's
They aren't as comfy as they look. My friend has a pair of jk composite seats that he finds really comfy but I didn't fit in them. I'm too wide, not that I'm fat.

My car

SteveH1 24th January 2016 10:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SeriesLandy (Post 102867)
The old style cobra seven's
They aren't as comfy as they look. My friend has a pair of jk composite seats that he finds really comfy but I didn't fit in them. I'm too wide, not that I'm fat.

My car

Yea they look nice with the pads
did he bolt them to the chassis or did he have runners
do they fit on a standard runners

SeriesLandy 24th January 2016 10:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveH1 (Post 102868)
Yea they look nice with the pads
did he bolt them to the chassis or did he have runners
do they fit on a standard runners

My drivers seat is on a runner and the passenger is on 25mm box with m8 bolts straight into to the bottom of the seat.
I'm not too sure about the jk ones, I think he had a runner but I'm not sure. Have a look at the jk website they look nice but you need to sit in one first.
Tillet are also very nice but costly, especially in carbon

garyt 24th January 2016 10:16 PM

haha nice one with the bracket :)
my hand brake is further back and yes I shortened the cable . like said above try and lower it if possible mine lands nicely inside my arm when reaching for the gear lever, also I padded out the tunnel top so the handbrake appears lower.
Seats , I used westfield sports seats
if you troll through my build you will see photos of seat and handbrake if you need more shout and I'll take some better ones

RichardH 24th January 2016 10:49 PM





heres my mx5 handbrake. i cut the cable bracket from the donor and welded that in the same place as the book bracket, then fitted the cables which gave me the handle position, works a treat and means its all standard, the saturn plans show a homemade cable for the last bit which i just dont like

SteveH1 24th January 2016 10:55 PM

Cheers for that.
Yea im not a fan of cutting it.
Would you have an expanded view showing the handbrake in relation to the gearstick
Cheers

SteveH1 28th January 2016 08:19 PM

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Rear suspension brackets in place

RichardH 28th January 2016 09:17 PM



heres one of the handbrake, clears the gearstick ok , could be further back by welding the cable clamp plate further back, i also welded on the small bracket that straightens the short cable into the handle, it cam off the trans tunnel of the mx5 and keeps the cable straigh and more importantly away from the prop

SteveH1 29th January 2016 08:06 AM

Cheers thanks for that.

SteveH1 5th February 2016 08:07 PM

Ok so i got the front suspension brackets mounted this required a jig to be made
it was a bit fiddly but got done in the end

Top jig
Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on FlickrUntitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

SteveH1 5th February 2016 08:07 PM

Bottom Jig

by stephen harborne, on Flickr

by stephen harborne, on Flickr

SteveH1 5th February 2016 08:08 PM

Brackets tacked in place

by stephen harborne, on Flickr

by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Also added a support brace

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Got these cut for the lower adjusters for the wishbones

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

garyt 5th February 2016 08:46 PM

looking good there and it always feels good to get something done.
One point to throw in there is that I rose jointed my lower front wishbones and in hindsight I think I would do the lowers fixed as per original design as the top drag link is adjustable to give the required camber and obviously the track rod ends give the toe in.
Origionally my idea of using the rose joints was to allow shimming fore and aft so I could adjust the castor / trail to give better self centering for the iva.
Like I say I'm just throwing that wee thought out there and by no means an expert on suspension design ... lol :)
anyway the weekend is here so keep up the good work :)

SteveH1 7th February 2016 09:22 PM

Cheers
Well i have all i need to make them adjustable so i think ill do that for now. Then when its set up correctly measure them a nd make solid ones to match.

Ill need something to do once finished :)

SteveH1 2nd March 2016 08:49 PM

Got my hand brake mounted

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr
ade these to bolt it to

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

garyt 2nd March 2016 09:04 PM

looks good I put mine tother side and was really happy with it, then carried on only discovered recently that I put the bolts in from the seat side then sheeted the tunnel Oooops hope it doesn't need to come out :)
Looks like your making good progress there.

SteveH1 3rd March 2016 08:00 AM

Cheers.
I work on cars for a living so im conscious of making things easy for myself in the future.

SteveH1 2nd April 2016 03:06 PM

Ok so i haven't updated this in a while.
But i have been busy as i said i had to upgrade the power supply to the shed to run the welder properly so i have since done this and also installed new lights to brighten the place up a bit.
So since i have most of the the chassis tacked together i decided to fully weld up as much as i can and my bandsaw had broken so i couldn't cut anymore steel anyway
Im currently about 95%or more welded after about 6 to 7 hours of welding


Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

vmax1974 2nd April 2016 05:35 PM

Does the dog help out much in the man cave

looking good keep the photos coming

Rosco 2nd April 2016 08:36 PM

Looking good, welds look mint! Just carefull with all that wood about!

SteveH1 2nd April 2016 08:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vmax1974 (Post 103307)
Does the dog help out much in the man cave

looking good keep the photos coming

Yea she loves leaving me toys and balls to fall over :)

SteveH1 2nd April 2016 08:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rosco (Post 103308)
Looking good, welds look mint! Just carefull with all that wood about!

Cheers yea I'm well used to fire lookout I've set my fair share of cars on fire in work
And i always hang around for at leas 20 minutes after i stop welding

SteveH1 2nd April 2016 09:12 PM

Ive also got a radiator to make up the rad mounts its from a mk3 golf
So i wasn't really sure about the mounting so there was a nose cone second on eBay
and after a bit of a bidding war it was on its way across the sea i also won a dash blank


by stephen harborne, on Flickr

by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

SteveH1 2nd April 2016 09:15 PM

by stephen harborne, on Flickr

by stephen harborne, on Flickr

by stephen harborne, on Flickr

So as you can see the rad was touching the nose cone so that needs to be adjusted glad i found out now

Thanks to Vmax for an excellent service and even better packaging
Thanks

vmax1974 2nd April 2016 10:35 PM

Glad they got there safe hope you happy with them

rpjg1975 2nd April 2016 11:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vmax1974 (Post 103313)
Glad they got there safe hope you happy with them

I was just thinking they looked like yours!!!!

Russ

flyerncle 4th April 2016 12:51 PM

Depending on engine fitted the rad will go in front of it above rack mounts,where the two chassis rails run from front frame.

SteveH1 4th April 2016 01:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flyerncle (Post 103318)
Depending on engine fitted the rad will go in front of it above rack mounts,where the two chassis rails run from front frame.

I went with the bigger golf rad which doesnt really fit behind the front frame. But it does fit in front of if just needs a bit of adjustment

flyerncle 5th April 2016 12:41 PM

Bit safer there if you bat the nose end.
I built a car to race and used Ginneta rad behind the frame worked a treat.

SteveH1 19th April 2016 07:13 AM

Hi
Does anyone have a link to the upgraded pedalbox
Thanks
Stephen

voucht 19th April 2016 07:28 AM

Hi Steve,
I don't know if you are talking about my "redesign", but in case, here is the link:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?...Dg&usp=sharing

If I had to redesign it now, I would put an angle on the throttle pedal, so when you are full throttle, your heel doesn't touch the bottom of the pedal. But it is totally drivable this way anyway.

Hope this will help :)

SteveH1 19th April 2016 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by voucht (Post 103429)
Hi Steve,
I don't know if you are talking about my "redesign", but in case, here is the link:
https://drive.google.com/folderview?...Dg&usp=sharing

If I had to redesign it now, I would put an angle on the throttle pedal, so when you are full throttle, your heel doesn't touch the bottom of the pedal. But it is totally drivable this way anyway.

Hope this will help :)

Yea thats the one
Fair play to you they are some good plans thanks for sharing
Thanks

TheArf 19th April 2016 10:32 AM

Hi, I'm using Sylvains peddle box design, one thing that i did slightly different was to weld the curved plates on the peddles differently.
I have wide feet, so I kept the brake peddle plate central, but then I placed the plate for the accelerator as far to the right as possible, but still allowing me a full weld and the clutch peddle plate I pushed to the left hand extreme if that makes sense. By doing this I get more room around the brake peddle.

kind regards

Arfon

SteveH1 19th April 2016 01:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TheArf (Post 103434)
Hi, I'm using Sylvains peddle box design, one thing that i did slightly different was to weld the curved plates on the peddles differently.
I have wide feet, so I kept the brake peddle plate central, but then I placed the plate for the accelerator as far to the right as possible, but still allowing me a full weld and the clutch peddle plate I pushed to the left hand extreme if that makes sense. By doing this I get more room around the brake peddle.

kind regards

Arfon

Yea i was thinking that might be an issue for me alright
Thanks

SteveH1 21st April 2016 08:51 PM

So i got another little bit done
got the bulkhead tacked in place i still need to cut a hole and mount a bearing for the steering column and the pedal box is the lower half of the bulkhead.

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

SteveH1 21st April 2016 08:52 PM

I also started on the suspension
I have made the camber adjusters for the wishbones which need to be made first to complete the wishbones

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr
The jig for aligning them

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

Untitled by stephen harborne, on Flickr

RichardH 21st April 2016 09:38 PM

i would hold of buying and fitting a bearing, i bashed in and bought one then when the seats went in i couldnt get my knees under the steering collum, my collum goes over the first bar then under the second, i modified the bulkhead bracket already on the mx5 collum and just bolted it straight on


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