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-   -   Time to start a build thread I suppose... (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=7147)

wylliezx9r 4th August 2013 12:50 PM

The crush tubes should be about 1mm wider than the bushes either side. This is crucial as otherwise the bush will be clamped rather than the tube, this will stress the nrbrackets and not allow the wishbones to move freely. The bush should be free to rotate around the tube. I had the same problem when I built my car, I took a belt sander to the bushes to remove the desired amount of material. Bit of a pain in the ass job but a must.

HTH Dan

PorkChop 4th August 2013 01:15 PM

There have been a few instances over with the MX5s where some PU bushes have bound on the wishbone tube, giving a very springy ride. This has led to complete failure of the wishbone in some cases. Some of the bushes shown had an obvious bulge to them, hence the question :)

Oscar 4th August 2013 04:52 PM

I've got the rear end together and moved the chassis on 2 wheels to its new site (4th one!). So cool seeing wheels on it :cool:

Chers for the info guys, never realised the extent of the importance re tube clamping. Knew it would affect ride but didn't twig the possibility of complete failure.

The polybushes all now sit such that the crush tube is at least flush with the poly-part. Will this be enough? I'll do the front bones so the crush's are all at least slightly proud, but will the rear be OK? Is this an IVA issue?

Pics to follow...

alga 4th August 2013 09:01 PM

I had one that was just flush, now it has all the paint and primer from the bracket embedded in the PU. Make them stand out at least a fraction of a millimetre. I doubt this would cause any problems at IVA, though, it's not very obvious from the outside.

Oscar 31st August 2013 08:51 PM

A few pictures, better late than never...

Wheels! And with me standing in the engine bay holding the front end up, it moved!


Some welds on the rear end, managed to give myself a nasty burn on this beam too :o


And finally, what I'm planning to do next:


I don't like the look of that rubber bush on the steering column, so I'd like to splice the socket from the Escort rack onto the Sierra's metal UJ.

I noticed today though that there's a rubber spacer/packing near the top of the Sierra column, this may complicate the welding. Thoughts?

Oscar 26th January 2014 06:23 PM

Progress report!
(Slightly delayed and overdue...)

Made quite a bit of progress since the last update, chassis is now fully welded with engine and gearbox mounting plates in place and it's all had a coat of primer and one coat of hammerite to stop the rust (except for one rail that I didn't notice untill AFTER I'd cleaned the brush!)

Midway through this I trial fitted the engine, took a while to shoehorn it out of the shed, but definately worth it.





This allowed to measure the positioning of the engine mount plates, weld them on and finish the chassis.

Oscar 26th January 2014 06:33 PM

Since then I've begun working on the engine mounts themselves. Step one, get the chassis on wheels.
Got most of the way there and realised the other two wheels in my shed were still grubby. No grubby parts near my pretty pretty car! :eek:





Cleaned the wheels today and finished off the plates for the engine mounts:



I'm hoping to be able to use empty gas cylinders for the struts. Thoughts? (diameter of about 75mm and wall thivkness of 2mm)

Also, I'm starting a new job in a couple weks as a Process Engineer, so I'll fuinally be able to buy some of the other parts I need!

voucht 26th January 2014 06:56 PM

Hi!

First, congrats for the new job!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oscar (Post 95529)
I'm hoping to be able to use empty gas cylinders for the struts. Thoughts? (diameter of about 75mm and wall thivkness of 2mm)

If you still have the Sierra you took the engine from, you will certainly not be able to reuse the propshaft, unless you want/can modify it yourself, re-weld, balance, etc. Not the easiest with this 2 pieces MT75 propshaft, I really struggled to find a way to re-use mine, and ended up bying a custom one from Duning and Faibanks (which I'm very happy with)

So you could use the propshaft tube for your engine mounts. I might have to change my engine mounts (I'm not extra happy with mine), and that is what I'm considering to do if I have too. I kept my Sierra propshaft for that, just in case...

Just an idea...

Good luck :)

Oscar 30th January 2014 05:48 PM

Bit the bullet and bought some box.

Spent an hour with the angle grinder and a couple old cylinders today trying to fab some engine supports and gave up; they're just too wide for my plates, too much wall that won't be supported and they get right in the way of the mounting bolts.

I've still got the old prop but I think it'll be just as much of a pig. I also don't want to chop it up too soon in case it can be used by whoever makes up my new prop.

So, bought some 40x40x3mm box off fleabay.

On a positive note my chassis and engine are both sat level and square ready to chop and fit my supports when i do get them!


One quick question before I go, SS1 (curved piece outside the seat backs), I left mine off for a very good reason I can't quite recall and I've noticed a couple builds also without them (Ste's?). Should I weld them on or bolt them or leave them?

PorkChop 30th January 2014 06:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Oscar (Post 95614)
One quick question before I go, SS1 (curved piece outside the seat backs), I left mine off for a very good reason I can't quite recall and I've noticed a couple builds also without them (Ste's?). Should I weld them on or bolt them or leave them?

You will need them fitted, or a replacement to give something for the rear arches to locate on. Lots of the GRP suppliers will have them as part of either the panel or side panel moulding.


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