Roll Bar too
I could manage to get my roll bar locally made, but I made a little mistake in the measurements of the main hoop: I told them 416mm high from the lower face (to be welded on RB1) to the top, instead of from the lower face to the middle line as in the book. Which means that the main hoop is about 25mm too short. I'm not tall (1.73m, sorry don't know how it is in feet :p ), so I think it is not a big problem. But do you guys see any problem with a "too small" roll bar ?
Thank you. |
I dont think 1 inch is gonna make too much of a difference Sylvain .....just dont grow any more and get a skinhead:D :D :D
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I think you're right Kev' ;)
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Thanks mate ! Pictures of the roll bar soon online. |
Raise the mounts 25mm if your worried.
TT |
why not just weld in two same size bits of tube to jack it up 25mm?
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Thanks anyway, could have been a solution :) |
Lower the seat.:o
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In fact I made the rollbar hoop 51 cm high in order for a plank put between the engine and the rollbar to clear my head by several centimetres.
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As Kev says, I'm not sure 25mm will make a big difference (especially for midgets like me). I guess you made it 51cm high because you are tall. But I don't really trust the roll bar design an anyway and hope the car will never flip over. I think the best chance of survival in the Roadster is not the roll-bar, but staying on the 4 wheels :)
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2 Attachment(s)
Hi,
I'm in a deep sh...t I just finished my roll bar. Attachment 1553 But I have a problem: after fully weld the cross-bar, it looks like the whole thing shrieked. When I tried to fit the roll bar fully welded, it looks like each RB1 plate moved inward of about 3mm. So I can't bolt the roll bar on the chassis, it is of course not flexible enough to match CP3/CP4 hole pattern. Attachment 1552 However, to put everything together, I made sure that: - I drilled plates RB1 at the same time as CP3/CP4, to make sure both hole patterns will be exactly the same, - I tacked the man hoop on RB1 with RB1 bolted to CP3/CP4 on the chassis to be sure they will be exactly where they should be, - I tacked the cross-bar and the back stays in the same way. But I should have fully welded the roll bar with the plates bolted to the chassis too. I didn't expect it to move so much after being tacked. What do you guys think? How can I solve the problem? I really don't want to cut RB1 plates off and weld new ones. I'm thinking about making “oval” holes on RB1 to match with CP4 hole pattern, but as the roll-bar is holding the seat belts, is this acceptable? Any opinion, advice or comment is welcome. I'm so pissed-off :mad: Thank you. |
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