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-   -   new build starting (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=13049)

ayjay 25th November 2013 11:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Talonmotorsport (Post 94675)
I use a stanley knife to score in to the surface and because it's bright yellow it helps me find it again! Also by scoring the surface a dirty finger rubbed across it makes it a permanent fine black line which is much easier to see.

Engineers black?:D :D

adamv 25th November 2013 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Talonmotorsport (Post 94675)
I use a stanley knife to score in to the surface and because it's bright yellow it helps me find it again! Also by scoring the surface a dirty finger rubbed across it makes it a permanent fine black line which is much easier to see.

Hi pal i sent you an email regarding chassis glat pack did you make head na tail of it lol.

adamv 26th November 2013 12:14 AM

Also another question might sound stupid to most

lets take bar C for instance bottom cross rail.
my plans say over all length 32.4 with 80° mitre
so do i cut it to 32.4 then mitre th 80's either side or do i mitre 1 at 80 then 34.2 is the other end of the mitre


Hope someone understands that as reading back even im thinking wtf

alga 26th November 2013 02:49 AM

Generally, the plans specify the outer dimensions. IOW you can cut the given tube square and then mitre the ends. It's easier to make a mitred cut from the outset, though, and because many tubes are paired, you can reuse the mitre on the remaining tube, too.

However, mate, have you got the right plans? Tube C? Sizes in inches? You must be looking at the Uncle Ron's book drawings, and you need the Chris Gibbs ones if you want to follow the SSC MX-5 guide. The Gibbs (Haynes Roadster) chassis is 4" longer, 2" wider and 1" higher than the Uncle Ron/Locost one. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Build-Your-O.../dp/1844253910

adamv 26th November 2013 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by alga (Post 94681)
Generally, the plans specify the outer dimensions. IOW you can cut the given tube square and then mitre the ends. It's easier to make a mitred cut from the outset, though, and because many tubes are paired, you can reuse the mitre on the remaining tube, too.

However, mate, have you got the right plans? Tube C? Sizes in inches? You must be looking at the Uncle Ron's book drawings, and you need the Chris Gibbs ones if you want to follow the SSC MX-5 guide. The Gibbs (Haynes Roadster) chassis is 4" longer, 2" wider and 1" higher than the Uncle Ron/Locost one. http://www.amazon.co.uk/Build-Your-O.../dp/1844253910

Lol in my hasty im doing it man tone to the mrs look love heres the plan for all i no i could be building a bus.
i got them off a web site all the plans say is book chassis good job i aint started hacking up steel only to find out later i built the wrong car.

ill order that book now iv ordered the haynes book with the black roadster on just hope they come before sat so i can make a start unless anyone here has a file drawing they can link me to

rpjg1975 26th November 2013 09:40 AM

That is the build guide that ash gardiner did if memory serves. You want the thick hard back with a yellow roadster on the front to build to. That has all plans and dimensions in it as well.

May be wrong but sure I will be corrected if so

Russ

Talonmotorsport 26th November 2013 12:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by adamv (Post 94677)
Hi pal i sent you an email regarding chassis glat pack did you make head na tail of it lol.

I am having a bit of resort with regards to the flat packs and the prices for both the Sierra (book spec) and the MX5 (TMXR) chassis flat packs.


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