Rear tub fitting.
 

I take it the rear tub lower lip goes under the rear rail and not over it.

TT

That is what I assumed from handyandys post in the side panel thread.
Have you put your sides on yet tt?? I'm about to do the nose but worried it's not looking right.

No, not yet. I was just playing whilst I had 5 mins.

I need to finish off the engine mounts (ran out of gas on thursday) and then pull the engine and crack on with the fitting up.

TT

Rear grp tub does indeed sit underneath the lower rails, you can then either rivet it on or use rivnuts. I would use rivnuts and 6mm dome headed allen bolts as it lets you take it off a lot easier at a later date if you have to.:)

I was indeed going to use 6mm dome's and rivnuts on most panels.

I was planning on using normal Sillycone Sealer in-between to keep moisture out of the gap ( comments? ).

TT

Silicone will be ok, only use something stronger if you don't intend taking the panels off. I once used sikaflex to put some side panels on then changed my mind on colour.....ummmmm I actually broke the side panel trying to get the damn thing off so be warned peeps sikaflex is damn strong sticky stuff:o

I,m using some sealant on the inside of the cockpit around the bottom chassis rails to keep water out, I haven,t used any sticky stuff to join the side panels to the chassis as I might want to take them off at some point ( probably never will tho :o ).

My rear tub is rivnutted to the chassis & the wings bolted to the rear tub, so its all easy to remove if need be .

cheers
andy

I have no intention of using a sticky compound for that very reason.

TT

use it on the floor panel though unless you have welded sheet steel as it helps stiffen things up as well as keep the panel where it's supposed to be...rivets can and do vibrate loose:eek:

Rivnuts are a great piece of kit but dont over do it with the ammount in structural areas as they need quite a large hole to fit them in

I thought m6 isnt that big when i first used them but if i remember correctly they need a 10mm hole to insert them into, which is quite large on a 25mm rail if you whack loads in every few inches

A good alternative is the self tappers that they used for fixing metal cladding to buildings, you can get them in various sizes and they have a hexagonal head on and their own cutting tip at the end

You get the bit to suit the head in your drill and they drill their own perfectly sized pilot hole and then screw into it

Some also come with a little crush washer that is water tight after tightening

So a 5mm self tapper bolt would only need a hole half the size of an m6 rivnut and are probably equally as strong

I think they sell them in screwfix if anyone has read my ramblings :D