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-   -   Brake bias bar question (http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=2993)

dogwood 1st November 2009 07:30 PM

Brake bias bar question
 
Evening all

I just bought a pair of brake master cylinders from Coozer
Now all I need to know is how to fit them...:rolleyes:
I know I need to buy or make a brake bias bar, but not sure where to go from there.
Can anyone point me in the right direction.

Cheers David.

Edit.....I've just Googled it, now I'm even more confused.....

Cobra289 1st November 2009 09:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dogwood (Post 24184)
Evening all

I just bought a pair of brake master cylinders from Coozer
Now all I need to know is how to fit them...:rolleyes:
I know I need to buy or make a brake bias bar, but not sure where to go from there.
Can anyone point me in the right direction.

Cheers David.

Edit.....I've just Googled it, now I'm even more confused.....

The most frequent used cylinders for a balance bar are the Girling and Wilwood, both are the same.

The template to make the holes can be seen here bellow, but that is when you use a balance bar with 63,5 mm [that is equal to the distance between the cylinders.



What I am afraid is that you make a bad selection of the cylinders.
You mention that you all ready have those ones.
Now be careful because the selection is very important and depends from your car and the components used on the build.

To bring a balance in the brake system you start with a balanced selection of the cylinders, than the fine adjustment you do with the balance bar.

I did made a excel sheet for the calculation, but it is in Spanish.
It looks like this:



All the calculations are related to the weight of the car, the weight trasfer, etc. etc.

Here is a picture where I explain the the Spanish guys how to do it.



As you can see there is needed some calculation to get it right.

Regards,
Cobra289

dogwood 1st November 2009 09:46 PM

Thanks for the reply Cobra......I think.:D

Now I am definatly confused, I have enough trouble with English:rolleyes:
Anyway the masters I bought were as supplied by MNR. 0.625 and 0.75.
So I am reasonably happy they will be OK for my app.

Just not sure how to attach the balance bar to the brake pedal.
Once I figured that I can worry about how to balance them,

David

Cobra289 1st November 2009 10:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dogwood (Post 24213)
Thanks for the reply Cobra......I think.:D

Now I am definatly confused, I have enough trouble with English:rolleyes:
Anyway the masters I bought were as supplied by MNR. 0.625 and 0.75.
So I am reasonably happy they will be OK for my app.

Just not sure how to attach the balance bar to the brake pedal.
Once I figured that I can worry about how to balance them,

David

The balance bar has a tube with an outside diameter of 30 mm, now you can make a hole of 30 mm at the center of the hole of 6.5 mm of the Haynes pedal.
You will get a halve hole of gap that is located at the 31 mm as the book mention.

There you weld the tube of 30 mm of the balance bar and probably you will get a good setup.
You need to know that you will have more surface at the cylinders compared to the Sierra cylinder so that means that you will need to have a heavy force at the pedal, or you change the pedal ratio [make it longer]

Regards,
Cobra289

dogwood 1st November 2009 10:13 PM

Thanks for that one Cobra.
I didn't realise there was a weldable tube with the bar.
I thought it was some sort of bearing.
Not seen one up close, only on the web.
And longer pedals is my plan anyway, because I find the clutch a bit sharp when in traffic. (Big Feet Like Bonzo:D )

David

Cobra289 1st November 2009 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dogwood (Post 24221)
Thanks for that one Cobra.
I didn't realise there was a weldable tube with the bar.
I thought it was some sort of bearing.
Not seen one up close, only on the web.
And longer pedals is my plan anyway, because I find the clutch a bit sharp when in traffic. (Big Feet Like Bonzo:D )

David

Yes! you get a weldable tube of 30 mm dia, with a balance bar, the balance bar itself has indeed a spherical bearing like the ones of the rod-ends.

Once you have weld [not to much penetration] you need to clean-out the inside of the tube, because the balance bar need to slide inside the tube.
Use a hand hone machine like the ones used for honing of the master cylinders.

Regards,
Cobra289

davidimurray 2nd November 2009 10:30 AM

You don't have to weld the tube in - it can also be pressed in which is what I used to do on Alu pedals

Cobra289 2nd November 2009 11:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidimurray (Post 24248)
You don't have to weld the tube in - it can also be pressed in which is what I used to do on Alu pedals

To do that you need to use two plates instead of the single plate of 5 mm pedal.

davidimurray 2nd November 2009 01:06 PM

Or just press a tube into another tube. I actually thought you were not supposed to weld the tube as they were case hardened.

Coozer 2nd November 2009 05:15 PM

Check this pic out, balance bar has a bearing in the middle that slides along the brake pedal letting the force be moved across from front to back.

http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/produc...&pcode=OBP0040

This one from Rally Design looks like it comes with the tube needed to be welded to the pedal.

http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=562_580_581&products_id=406 2

Hope that helps.

Steve


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