1 piece floor vs 2 piece floor
 

I posted over on Locostbuilders just to see what kind of advice I would get as to the process to follow when riveting/bonding an alu floor panel onto my chassis. (whether to rivet in a certain pattern/etc)...


Interestingly I got feedback from some respondents to say - don't use a 1 piece floor panel:

"Having the tunnel panelled just means it fills with cr@p from the road and there's reduced route for engine heat to exit.

Keep it simple and lighter, and just panel in each person's half. "

"I wouldnt worry about the tunnel either i had a Tiger with propshaft and i wouldnt have wanted the floor in the way for if i needed to check/work on it."

"My advice to this chappie (as another has said) is the *keep a separate tunnel floor section*. This can then be removed for prop inspections, etc., as well as getting the rubbish out. "



What do actual Haynes builders have to say about this though?

Ive got 2 different panels as you can work on it without removing the tunnel top. (which is a right PITA)

I went with two separate pieces. Some material/weight economy, more straightforward to cut out, easier access to the prop and diff, less crud gathering in the car. The only downside is slightly lower chassis rigidity.

I've gone for one big panel, but am planning to panel the bottom of the engine bay and diff cage also.

My view on the subject is that surely a 1 piece floor adds more strength to the structure, weight wise, it's a small cut out really, we are talking a few kilos extra on a 100bhp + car, it's nothing. As long as you can access the diff to drop the bolts on the driveshaft, and slide the prop out, no problem !:D

Unless you are building a race car where 10ths of a sec count two piece will save you hassle,make a splitter panel to cover the rear diff/boot area.

Good to hear the thoughts. I'm going to stick to my guns for now - and go with 1 piece floor - and a removable tunnel top (fitted with rivnuts).

However - I am aware I may come to regret this decision - so will work on the basis that I can easily drill a couple of holes and use the jigsaw to take out the 'centre' section of the 1 piece panel if I decide to do so in the future...

At the end of the day it's your build, build it the way you want it

Arfon

Used steel sheet too, 120 kg at last medical :eek:

Good point - but don't forget - mine is the womble car - my ali was free!!!!! :D :D http://meandthekitcar.files.wordpres...11446308_n.jpg

I did single piece in mild steel stitch welded. Its a bit more weight, but I really didn't like the idea of something tearing through the alum. floor and running me through.

Consider making an access hole beneath the prop flange, and having the best of both worlds. Also, the bits of gravel that make it into the tunnel will have a way out :-)

Turn the edge up on the panel at a suitable point in the tunnel area and this might stop some of the crud getting up there.

would 1.2mm galvanised sheet steel be suitable for the flooring , with regard to strength and weight ?

would it be useful for the firewall etc also ?

as there is enough being thrown away at work to do everything i need

to add to the info , its a BMW build car

BB

Sounds about right, especially since it's free!

Just dont try and weld it in !!!!
You can always put bars across the floor to support the seats.

thanks guys

i was going to rivet the floor , as i have lots of rivets and an air riveter ,

thanks for the advice on the floor brace for the seat mounts, i have sourced some material for that as well , its some 100mmx25mm open box section , this will allow several fixing holes for the seat runners for fine adjustment if needed

BB

Not sure what 'open box section' is - but I have gone with 25mm x 3mm strips on which to mount the seat runners. Avoids putting any more height than is necessary into the seat base - plus means you don't need to put crush tubes in - which you would with box section.