Break Pressure switch
Hi all.
I know the what most have seem to do it is use a 'T' piece but I was wondering if there is any reason I could't use one of these: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152207740920 I'm using the standard MX5 master cyclinder and on front nearside output there is a reducer/adaptor with a banjo bolt which my plan is to replace with this. I'm also thinking a similar setup for the clutch which had a wilwood style MC, that, I'm not 100% on yet. As always your advice is apreciated |
Morning
I think most people fit a normal switch instead of a hydraulic one as they require a bit more effort to bring the light on. I'm sure others will be along soon with there opinion. Gary |
I have one that's actuated by fluid pressure and there is a delay between putting the brakes on and the switch connecting. I do plan to get rid of it and fit a conventional mechanical switch despite the added aggro.
If I was an IVA tester I wouldn't pass it. |
Hi I used a mini one into a T piece on its side, clear as mud !!!! Brake fluid north / south pressure switch horizontal as if upright can hold air
No noticeable delay in braking to lights on Oh and I separated the reservoir from my m/c ( mx5) and remotely mounted it on the o/s top rail made bleeding the brakes a dawdle after trying allmanner of things previously ( pictures in my build thread) |
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Dave
I do agree I have used them switches on bikes ideal for when fitting rear sets.. your have to let me know how it goes as my pedal set up will be pita to get a mechanical switch on Gary |
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Yes that's what I used barbed connectors and flexi pipe to the reservoir
Yes it was a strange thread on the clutch m/c I think it was std on the slave but the rally design one on the bulkhead was something like 7/16 Will have a look and see if I still have the sizes of the phone but will see if I can pop a pic up later |
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ok hopefully here are a few pics of trials n tribulations
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