Quote:
Originally Posted by H-L-Smith
Thank you, Bob.
I see what you mean about doing too much along one side (chassis rail) and switching off as you go. How about the 3-dimensional aspect?
For example, would an expansion of that technique be doing a joint on a lower rail on one side, switching to the analogous joint on the opposite side lower rail then going back to the first side, but now doing a joint on the top rail in close proximity to the very first one you did?
I'm trying to get as smart as I can before I weld up the chassis. It would be a shame spending all this time trying to stay withing one millimeter on measurements then see the result twist by 5mm due to a poor welding sequence.
|
If you do find you get distortion and the back or front lifts substantially you can simply grind back the weld on the high side, grind a groove over the old weld and reweld it, 90% of the time this will pull it back into shape. I used this method to fully weld the bottom rails before I started with the uprights and the top rails, I've just finished stage two of the chassis and it's sitting flat.