Quote:
Originally Posted by Johno
Hi Chris,
That's a goo idea with the rear top tube  I guess you intend to sheet the rear in ally and that will work out nice around the wheel arch area as it can all be in one piece. |
Yeah I'll sheet it in ally but then integrate some chopped up rear arches made of fibreglass somehow.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johno
Gonna pick your'e brains now, did you lower the floor to get over the top harness anchorage points to be within IVA measurements as I'm looking to have no rear stays on my rollbar and weld spacers on my top seat rail to gain height?
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I lowered the floor so I felt like I was sitting "on it" and not "in it", with comfy seats I felt I was sat too high. The seat belt mounting was a bonus as was being able to run the steering column under that cross member and not over, using the original pedal box and the clocks fitting under the scuttle. It's worked out well and as the engine has to lowered 40mm it seemed a reasonable choice to lower the floor.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johno
I see you're prop has been shortened, did you do this yourself and if so where? Also I guess you measured between the gear box ouput and diff flange and made the prop a bit shorter? by how much shorter do you make it?
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You know that props not welded or anything I had some tube that fitted inside it so I used it to just mock it up had to cut it a few time to get it right. I'll tack it before removing it and taking it to the professional to be remade and balanced. I know a place local I've done work for in the past see if they can sort me out.
I don't know how much I removed but my engine is probably a little further forwards than yours to clear the standard pedal box.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johno
Regarding you instrument cluster now... 
I also intend to use the original Mazda panel but the only set back I have at the moment is the speedo cable.
Anybody using the mechanical speedo drive will have problems in the transmission tunnel with the radius being too tight from the gearbox. I have read Westfields only lasting a few miles before the cable breaking on their Mazda builds.
I believe there is a TOYOTA 90 degree adapter that will fit the Mazda gearbox to get over this but dammed if I can source the part...
What do you intend to do? |
As I say I'll probably take it into the foot well and make a cover for it but if you can find that part it would be a better option. I know john (skov) has used a mk2 electrical speed sender but i think you'd have to use mk2 clocks and I'm not sure how complicated that would be. Ecu want to know what speed your going as well which the mk1 instrument cluster relays to the ecu.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Johno
Really like what you are doing with the build Chris...
Johno
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Cheers Johno, I like yours too but it hurts my eyes to look at your thread.