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#1
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![]() hi im just getting started on my roadster and wondered if any one had welded there chassis with an arc welder or is it strictly a mig job also what setting you have been using your welder on as going to be teaching my self to weld
appreciate any comments cheers mark |
#2
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![]() Welcome to the forum Mark, & best wishes for your Roadster build.
before i started my build i had the free use of an arc welder but after asking a similar question to yours i went with the general feeling that as a "new welder" that mig is the way to go, i went on a free 11 week (2hrs each wednesday night) college course to learn the basics of welding, maybe your local technical college offers similar course,s?? maybe worth enquiring. all the best Andy ![]() |
#3
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![]() I was going to arc weld my chassis, but found it too difficult to weld the 1.6mm thick steel together as i kept blowing holes.
After having a go with a MIG welder i defiantly knew that was the route i wanted to go down. So after i few months i bought a Clarke 150EN (used) and the rest of the bits needed for it, it cost me £200 in total including gas and wire. But i dont regret it in the slightest, as i can sell the MIG after i've finished my build if i need the money (i cant see that happening though) If you can ARC weld really well and are very happy with welding 1.6mm thick steel then i'd say go for it, if however you are not that comfortable with it then go for a MIG, its so easy to pick up. I hope my post have been of some help.
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1.8 Silvertop Zetec (ZX6R Carbs + Megajolt) + Type 9 My Build Blog: http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=2736 - Last Update: 31st October 2020 Total Spent so far: Stopped counting ![]() |
#4
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![]() The very best of luck to you there fella if your going down that route, it's hard enough to make the chassis straight and square if you can weld to a reasonable standard with a MIG let alone MMA. If it's the cost of the welder your thinking about you might be better off with a scratch start 160 amp TIG set.
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Website http://www.talonmotorfabrication.co.uk/ Direct email phil@talonmotorfabrication.co.uk talonmotorfabrication@gmail.com Mobile office hours 07514098334 |
#5
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![]() Quote:
I would highly recommend trawling ebay for a couple of weeks to find a 150 amp or higher second hand Mig welder. Then invest a small amount in replacing the wire liner, swan neck, possibly torch etc and you will have a good quality reliable welder. It will probably come with some wire, maybe even gas. Just make sure it works before you hand over any money. Arc is really best left for thicker metals, and Tig will take a lot longer to learn. As well as taking an absolute age to weld up a full chassis. Cheers Chris |
#6
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![]() As you do not have lot of experience welding, would recommend going MIG as it the least difficulty to master of welding processes. (Its easier than stick (smaw)). Also recommend power min of 160 AMP as limiting functionality with less power. In other words, you can always turn unit down to lower settings for "thin" stuff, but can't go beyond max settings. As you progress in your skills, will want to do varied projects.
Buy as good as Mig unit as you can afford and if you choose wisely, will last you for many years. My recommendation is to purchase unit that is set up for protective gas rather than "flux" wire. It is nasty with lots of splatter,and very "fumy." My collection of welding stuff: 1. 160 amp century 220 v (DC, straight and reversed polarity) use on sheet metal to 1/4 inch or thicker by adjustments and heavier wire size. Use this machine about 85% of operations, uses protective gas(usually 75/25 mix) 2. 200amp "stick" (smaw) 220v (called cracker box here) old style welding,inexpensive use on heavy farm type usage where cosmetics is of no concern 3. miller roughneck 2e, gas driven portable unit on skid used in locations where no line power is available. Have not used this unit after acquitision. Miller top brand name. 4&5. small and large acet/oxy combos on carts. This process not used too much any more. _______________ Have used and proficient on Tig, both ferrous and non ferrous based metals. It is more difficult to learn as you are using both hands and usually one foot (to regulate power.) However, it is a highly desirable method of welding for mission critical work. If the machine has the "beans" can be regulated down to joining soda cans to high amperage 300>. Lesson I learned hard way, be sure to disconnect electronic based stuff (by removing ground battery cable)when welding on vehicles. Solid state does not like all those strange electrons floating around.http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/images/smilies/mad.gif Tom
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The more I learn, the less I know. The only time I hurry anymore is going to the bathroom. Last edited by scopx : 1st November 2009 at 12:41 AM. Reason: added tig info |
#7
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![]() thanks a lot chaps i can see this forum is going to be a lot of help in the future. Good luck to you all with your builds.
I will be definitely going down the mig route ive found a buy it now on ebay brand new for under £200 150 amp version . Cheers mark |
#8
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![]() Before you spend your hard earned cash on a MIG welder, have a look on the Mig welding forum and see if the welder is any good. There are many cheap nasty welders out there at the moment. SIP welders are supposed to have terrible wire feed mechanisms so should be avoided.
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1.8 Silvertop Zetec (ZX6R Carbs + Megajolt) + Type 9 My Build Blog: http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=2736 - Last Update: 31st October 2020 Total Spent so far: Stopped counting ![]() |
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