#1
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Steel
I'm looking to start sourcing the steel for my build and came across this on ebay and was wondering if anyone else had used? Seems a good price to get 42.5m at £123 + delivery.
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Mild-Steel-ERW...item43a221d5a6 |
#2
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Thats an awful lot BB, you still need 20m of 19mm box section on top of that to. Cheaper options would be to visit any local stockists, should be able to get it for half that price, or consider one of the pre-cut chassis packs where you will be able to get the full cut kit for not much more.
AndyH
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Haynes Roadster / Saturn GRP Bodywork. Now available direct through http://www.gillhamonline.co.uk/ or contact me direct on andrew.hugill@ntlworld.com Regards..........AndyH |
#3
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Fair point, upon further digging I found I could get 42m of 25x25x1.5 erw and 24m of 20x20x1.5 erw from parkers for £150 including vat and delivery. Does it make a big difference though using 2mm over 1.5mm? Can't seem to find a clear answer about why 2mm would be better anywhere and I understand the book recommends 1.5mm? (still waiting for my amazon copy to turn up). For example if I want to upgrade to a zetec engine later will the 1.5mm be strong enough? Also never welded before and not sure what people mean by punch through?
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#4
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Just to give you another option!!!!
I am selling my completed chassis (less pedal box) £550 (build diary in my signature) I fully understand you will probably want to build your own chassis I really enjoyed my build. Just letting you know. I think all my steel came to £115 delivered.(Parker steel) Cheers Ginge
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Sent from my iPad, from who knows where in the world I was building but I am not now! Build Pictures Build Thread |
#5
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go for a pre cut if your building your own (unless you work in a fabrication shop)
it saves so much time and trouble and you will be able to progress quickly i would go for a handyandys "2mm" or 3ge(john) "1.6" both are on this forum and will be able to help if you have any probs and thats worth more than a few quid plus you have to look at mistakes you might make and the cost of cutting discs saw blades and so on also what do you plan to do with the chassis? racing and bike engines 1.6mm light. big bhp and v6 motors go 2mm |
#6
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I'm planning to just use my donor 1.8 CVH to get me through the IVA but then I'd like to put one of the 2.0 zetec's in and tune it up to a higher horse power and torque if possible. Would also like a shot at taking it out on a track but I wouldn't really want to properly "race" it. I want to order & cut the steel myself to save money as doing it by hand with a hacksaw sounds doable and will save me alot as I've not got a massive budget but have lots of time. Does anyone know of any other good steel stockholders that deliver? Parkers doesn't seem to do ERW at 20x20x2, only 20x20x1.5 and I take it you shouldn't mix it by doing 25x25x2 and 20x20x1.5?
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#7
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By the same logic buying a complete chassis makes you able to progress even quicker. But then there's less of the "I made it" appeal. I had many hours of quiet happiness fettling the ends of tubes with a flat file.
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Albert Haynes Roadster FAQ | Haynes Builder Locations Gallery, build thread in Lithuanian / via Google Translate. |
#8
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Indeed, I'm quite looking forward to learning some metal working skills. Quite tempted to also build a trailer to move the locost around on
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#9
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I'm trying to work out how much steel I should get and the book doesn't really give you too much help here. From what I've read I think I need 42m of 25x25 and 18m of 20x20. The book also metions some other bits which I'm not sure I need at this stage or not like 51x25x1.5 , round steel tube (19, 25, 28, & 33), seamless steel tube (25,19) , round steel bar stock (20,26,30), round steel pipe, steel sheet, steel strip, steel/aluminum pipe, aluminum sheet, aluminum capping strip. Can anyone help with a general idea what all these other bits go into and whether I should/need to buy them at the inital stage? Also any quantities would be appreciated too!
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#10
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50x25 can be substituted with two pieces of 25x25 welded together, they are for the seatback rails.
The 19 mm round tube is for the rear tub bends, you can skip it if you go for GRP rear end. Also, pieces of 19 mm are used in the rear uprights and the cable guides in the pedal box. The 25 and 33 tube must be for the rollbar. 28, I believe, is for the pedal bushes, you need just 100 mm of that. 3ge do a nice set for pedal bushes -- outer, inner tubes plus oilite bearings. 33.7x2.6 are the suspension bush tubes, and 25 and 19 seamless is for the wishbones themselves. You'll need 3 mm plates pretty soon in the build, either get a complete set from 3ge or find somewhere local that can laser the intricate parts and get some 3 mm strip and 3 mm plate for the simple parts. There are drawings of the 1, 3, 5, 10 mm plate pieces somewhere on the forum.
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Albert Haynes Roadster FAQ | Haynes Builder Locations Gallery, build thread in Lithuanian / via Google Translate. |
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