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#1
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He did mention "galv" pipe,that's why it looks f,ugly weld.
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Cost : Little as possible. Thanks : To those who by their generosity my build has progressed. Its a handmade sports car not a flaming kit car !!! If at first you dont succeed,avoid skydiving... No parachute require to freefall,only if you want to do it twice. |
#2
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I understand that but we weld galv pipe all the time and you wouldnt really tell the difference between that and normal steel when we(not me) weld it.Was just a point of view and suggestion and not meant to be derogatory.
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#3
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Here's what I used for bushings, (a 4x4 post of nylon!) I cut a cross section at 1 3/16"(30mm) then took "core samples" with 1" (25mm) hole saw I can't find a collar/sleeve to act as a crush tube so ill just let it ride on the 1/4'' bolt,(6mm?) I may drill and tape bushing (bush? LOL) tubes for a grease zirk Here's with bushing installed. Went in alittle easy, if the bushing is spinning in tube, I may have to add some welds inside for grip. I saw someone (don't remember who, sorry) but they welded round bar stock on the front for stregth, I didn't like the look of that, and thought this would look better.....now I'm thinking the best way would be either add the plate or bar to back of pedals, leaving a slim profile in front.. of course it would need notched for clevis/cable clearance that way. I will quote Jack from Kinetic Vehicles, (who makes cast aluminum ones for 30/each, only 3hr drive from me!) When he said: "I'm not much of a bling guy, and its dark down there in the drivers footwell, so I don't much car!" Sorry for quoting you Jack, if your on here! |
#4
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Thank you for comments and concerns, sorry I failed to mention I've been converting everything to SAE, and using 1/8" plate and will use 3/16" for brake pedal. (3mm and 5mm). As I mentioned before, I HAVE reinforced my pedals, As I figured with some of these nightmare stories of bent pedals, and since it would melt bushings if I decided to do it later. I'm not going to test for strength, but I know I got good enough penetration, that they will be strong enough for even my "frantic clutch kicks"!
Here's the "spine" of 1/8" plate I welded down the outside of each pedal, sorry for 5mp droid pics! IIRC the "height" of these plates was approx. 3/8" to 7/16". And length of 5" on clutch and 5 3/4" on gas(please don't ask to convert) why can't I find a metric tape measure? |
#5
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Here they are painted:
Gloss black sure makes those "gorilla welds" look better! Oh, and where gloves when grinding, so you don't "clean your cuticles" with a grinder wheel! Or maybe I'm flipping off whoever said my welds "looked like shite"! Lol |
#6
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Beauty is in the eye of the beholder , Kin ell. Turn up the amps or slow down the wire.
Bob
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When The Results Disagree With The Theory: Believe The Results And Invent A New Theory If I had two brains I,d still be a halfwit The cave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/my...deshow/mancave The build http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12669 |
#7
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Ya it definitely didn't like welding the galvenized pipe, especially since I didn't grind any off at all. The wire would just push against the surface for a milisecond before arcing,(almost like faulty ground, but it wasn't) just enough that the wire would heat up and break further up, even on higher voltage. The way that worked best was to begin the weld somewhere down on the 1/8th inch plate, then work up to the pipe. Unfortunately this added much more weld overall than I would like.
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#8
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Hi there,
I believe it was me who added round bar to the front of the pedals for strength. Used round bar as it is stronger than flat with better looks (in my opinion). Like somebody said "beauty is in the eye of the beholder" I wouldn't weld anything to the back of the pedals espicially on MX5 build as both the clutch and brake pedal require a clevis for the master cylinders. Good luck with your buid Johno...... |
#9
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Thats more like it.
Bob
__________________
When The Results Disagree With The Theory: Believe The Results And Invent A New Theory If I had two brains I,d still be a halfwit The cave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/my...deshow/mancave The build http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12669 |
#10
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Like I said, I meant no offense, but obviously we're on the same page about the bar on the back. I'm not sure why I noticed the reason for the bar in front being that on the back would interfere with the clevis's, then immediately welded plates that will interfere with them!
Anyway as someone else stated, the way to go would be to just build them all from 3/16ths. (5mm). Hindsight......well you know. Well I also got much better @ welding galvenized! : P Also was nice change back to heavy plate!(I'm a heavy truck mechanic/fabricator) All painted up with bushing installed. We'll see how paint holds up to Oregon coast, its Valspar Tractor Emplement paint. |
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