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#1
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![]() Well, since I have the total first section(BR) almost complete
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Miss you Doug and Charlie!! |
#2
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![]() I think the general concensus on this is the car will break traction long before hp or torque will have any effect on the chassis, if you are going beserk on the hp front
![]() Bob
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When The Results Disagree With The Theory: Believe The Results And Invent A New Theory If I had two brains I,d still be a halfwit The cave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/my...deshow/mancave The build http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12669 Last edited by robo : 13th October 2012 at 09:38 AM. |
#3
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![]() Good afternoon, and thank you Bob and TMS
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Miss you Doug and Charlie!! |
#4
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![]() Replace the doubled up 25x25 sections of the rear seat/diff area with 25x50 section and possibly brace the diff mountings to add strength,this area is loaded most and likekely to twist given a bit of spirited driving.IMHO
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Cost : Little as possible. Thanks : To those who by their generosity my build has progressed. Its a handmade sports car not a flaming kit car !!! If at first you dont succeed,avoid skydiving... No parachute require to freefall,only if you want to do it twice. |
#5
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![]() Quote:
i can get loads of the 25x25x2 mm box but not as easy for the 1.6 down here in sunny cornwall, i would have to order it all, would the extra 0.4mm really add much to the overall weight? |
#6
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![]() It's very easy to calculate: a meter of 25x25x1.6 weighs:
25 mm ^2 - (25 mm - 2 * 1.6 mm)^2 * 1000 mm * 7.8 g/cm^3 / 1000 = 1168 g For 2 mm thickness this is: (25^2 - (25 - 2 * 2)^2) * 1000 * 7.8 / 1000 = 1435.2 g Which is a 22% increase in weight. If we use 42 m of 25x25 and 14 m of 20x20, the increase in chassis' weight will be around 14 kg. Whereas the increase in bend stiffness of these tubes will be around 15% or so. A much better increase in chassis torsional rigidity can be achieved by the "Aussie mods": triangulating the front frame, bridging the chassis under the gearbox where the bottom rail is cut out, triangulating corners of the engine bay.
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#7
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![]() Quote:
I want to have a completely flat underside to my car for aerodynamics as well as stiffness, but it's putting my tall engine 80mm out of the top of the bonnet. That is just from the gearbox which sticks out further than the sump at the moment, and will even further when i've fitted the dry sump. |
#8
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![]() In response to the original question it depends on whether you mean "how many BHP will make it undriveable?" or "how many BHP will break it?". Sadly the answer to both is "it depends". Undriveable is an unmeasurable concept, F1 cars are pushing 800ish BHP through rear wheels in a 600 KG chassis at 200 MPH but few of we mere mortals would be able to drive it at all.
As for how much power it will take to break it, again "it depends". How heavy will it be and rather than BHP look at the torque the chassis has to contend with. If there's lots of torque ( think of Robo's V8 beast or my own V6 Cosworth job, not massive power but serious torque) and you are using soft sticky tyres and driving it in anger on track then there is a good chance of something breaking, probably the rear diff/suspension area for a guess. Just my humble opinion, D.
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visit my website at www.cossie.davenewell.co.uk |
#9
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![]() Quote:
![]() ![]() Bob
__________________
When The Results Disagree With The Theory: Believe The Results And Invent A New Theory If I had two brains I,d still be a halfwit The cave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/my...deshow/mancave The build http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12669 |
#10
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![]() I'd be interested in seeing the triangulation options/pictures, has anyone done this? This might be something I should also consider.
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