#11
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steel brake pipe is only std fitment to prouduction cars realy as cheap hard and rusts. almost all is copper or cupro nickel as it can be formed into bends lasts longer and swaged easly.
i dont know if you can get replacment steel pipe anymore? |
#12
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Think I'm gone mock mine up in the plastic coated stiff wire you get from garden centres then take my fittings and pipe down the local garage where I get all the cars MOT'd and ask them if they can do it.... think it will be cheaper than buy expensive kit and they are less likely to balls it up than me
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#13
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Quote:
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#14
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flaring tool
has anyone ever used one of these and are they any good??
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=p5197.c0.m619
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Click to see my build photos on Flikr http://www.flickr.com/photos/67112582@N03/ Saturn MX5 Based Chassis, Limited Slip Diff & 2.4 Quick Rack. Build cost.... seems to be spending more on tools than car bits at the moment! (they will be handy in the future though). Car iva'd and passed 15/08/2014. Finished weight 572kg. |
#15
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i have a snap-on one that must be nearly as old as me, used to be my dad's, and after using it last night i can confirm it still works as good as it did when he had it....
half the battle with these tools, is cutting the pipe square, and deburring it the same every time that and propper placement of the pipe before you start winding the other half is remembering to put the nut on first! |
#16
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[quote=baz-r;68778]as long as you get the length and ends right you need made in copper then you can bend your pipe easly by hand around a bolt or can to get the radius you need
Dont forget if you get them made up to remember which end is convex and which is concave. Bob
__________________
When The Results Disagree With The Theory: Believe The Results And Invent A New Theory If I had two brains I,d still be a halfwit The cave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/my...deshow/mancave The build http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12669 |
#17
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iirc all sierra stuff is convex for male, concave for female (m10x1.0)
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#18
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Sorry to dig this thread up... Finally getting round to trying to learn to flare. Am I right in thinking that for the convex for male ends (single flair) I just use the tool with the dye in to make the 1st flair? And then to make it a concave (double flair) for female ends I just remove the dye and do it again?
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#19
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datz da one
Bob
__________________
When The Results Disagree With The Theory: Believe The Results And Invent A New Theory If I had two brains I,d still be a halfwit The cave http://s1116.photobucket.com/user/my...deshow/mancave The build http://www.haynes.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=12669 |
#20
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Quote:
i find the best thing to do is cut the end off all your metal pipes leaving the end with its nut etc. in the parts you take off your doner then you know the tread,length and type of swage you need when you make all your pipes up. |
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