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#81
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![]() Still waiting for some replacement parts so that I can get it rolling and wheel it to and from my other garage but I got the steering hashed out.
The cast UJ from Rally Design is poor. The holes are not in the right position to stop the splined ends from pulling out. ![]() Cheers Stot
__________________
1.6 Mazda B6 : Garrett TBO339 : 420cc WRX Injectors : FMIC : Microsquirt V3 : LC-2 Wideband : Toyota COP Build Started Jan 2013 : OTR Aug 2014 : Build Pictures |
#82
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![]() Looking good pal,
1 question the plate your steering column bearing is mounted to, is that still 1mm as per the book or have you beefed it up a bit? I'm just about to tackle that bit is all. Cheers Will |
#83
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![]() Quote:
Cheers Stot
__________________
1.6 Mazda B6 : Garrett TBO339 : 420cc WRX Injectors : FMIC : Microsquirt V3 : LC-2 Wideband : Toyota COP Build Started Jan 2013 : OTR Aug 2014 : Build Pictures |
#84
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![]() Do you plan to attach your master cylinder or the pedal pivot to it?
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Albert Haynes Roadster FAQ | Haynes Builder Locations Gallery, build thread in Lithuanian / via Google Translate. |
#85
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![]() Quote:
![]() Cheers Stot
__________________
1.6 Mazda B6 : Garrett TBO339 : 420cc WRX Injectors : FMIC : Microsquirt V3 : LC-2 Wideband : Toyota COP Build Started Jan 2013 : OTR Aug 2014 : Build Pictures |
#86
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![]() Don't forget that the pedal box is also bolted to the floor, it's resting against the bottom chassis rail, and the MC is just a couple of millimetres above said rail. I used 1 mm plate as per book, and I think it's perfectly adequate. If you're unconvinced, 1.5 mm plate will definitely do the job, and 3 mm is just 1 kg of extra weight in the chassis.
__________________
Albert Haynes Roadster FAQ | Haynes Builder Locations Gallery, build thread in Lithuanian / via Google Translate. |
#87
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![]() Back to the dials...
I think the MX5 Nutz guy is stopping doing them as the emails went dry. So I did a little digging and found a guide on making them yourself, although the guide has been taken down now as people were stealing the guide writers designs. Laser print a front, middle and back on acetate and paper. Stick them together with a spray glue. cut them out.
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1.6 Mazda B6 : Garrett TBO339 : 420cc WRX Injectors : FMIC : Microsquirt V3 : LC-2 Wideband : Toyota COP Build Started Jan 2013 : OTR Aug 2014 : Build Pictures Last edited by Stot : 2nd April 2013 at 08:50 PM. |
#88
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![]() Add holes for the screws and locators
Cut out the odometer window with a craft knife. Draw round the inside of the window with a black sharpie to hide the white edge.
__________________
1.6 Mazda B6 : Garrett TBO339 : 420cc WRX Injectors : FMIC : Microsquirt V3 : LC-2 Wideband : Toyota COP Build Started Jan 2013 : OTR Aug 2014 : Build Pictures |
#89
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![]() Don't forget to cut the middles out like I did.
This is how I popped off the old dial hands. levering against my fingers not the back of the dial. As I changed where the 0 position was, I needed to remove the three tell tale lights so the whole tacho dial would illuminate.
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1.6 Mazda B6 : Garrett TBO339 : 420cc WRX Injectors : FMIC : Microsquirt V3 : LC-2 Wideband : Toyota COP Build Started Jan 2013 : OTR Aug 2014 : Build Pictures Last edited by Stot : 2nd April 2013 at 08:50 PM. |
#90
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![]() Put the dial hands back on.
Daylight Night time Came out nice I thought. ![]() Cheers Stot
__________________
1.6 Mazda B6 : Garrett TBO339 : 420cc WRX Injectors : FMIC : Microsquirt V3 : LC-2 Wideband : Toyota COP Build Started Jan 2013 : OTR Aug 2014 : Build Pictures |
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