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#1
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that's going to change the swing geometry though... Not sure what effect it will have.
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You only get a woosh with a dump valve Build Thread Man Cave Mantiques Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders |
#2
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Which? Moving the brackets or lengthening the adjusters
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Statistically only one in seven dwarves are happy |
#3
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I thought the geometry would be set by the lower wishbones as they have no adjustment. It’s the top wishbone adjusters that will be lengthened
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Statistically only one in seven dwarves are happy |
#4
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It's more complex, get some card and paper fasteners and you will see.
If both arms are the same length then the the movement of the hub will stay paralel. and the camber of the wheel will not change relative to the chassis. But if one arm is shorter than the other you will begin to create an ARC, it may be minor and of no consequence. but the wheel camber will alter as the suspension is loaded. This is not necessarily undesirable, and may be part of the original haynes suspension design.
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You only get a woosh with a dump valve Build Thread Man Cave Mantiques Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders |
#5
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That makes a lot of sense I’ll measure both the upper and lower wishbones
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Statistically only one in seven dwarves are happy |
#6
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My rear upper wishbones are a lot shorter than the lower ones.
MX5 rear upper wishbones are a lot shorter than the lower ones. As far as I know unequal length wishbones are the preferred arrangement. IMO making longer adjusters or moving the anchor points won't alter the geometry enough to be a problem, there isn't very much movement in the rear suspension anyway, and if you set it at 1% negative at the ride height it probably will only go to 0% when cornering. Regards Mick. |
#7
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Hi Mick, is your chassis the Saturn one using the original diff case?
Mine is the talon chassis using my version of Phil’s diff case (as he’s no longer making them) My wishbones are also talon ones but I’ve not really seen many other people using them (front upper ones are curved not triangular and front lowers have an upward bend in them) On the rears the upper adjusters have to be wound out almost all the way to get -1 degree of negative camber (45mm of thread showing) So my plan is to re-make the adjusters with an extra 40mm of thread just for piece of mind, unless of course you can see any reason why that would be a bad idea
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Statistically only one in seven dwarves are happy |
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