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  #1  
Old 31st July 2009, 12:23 PM
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Bonzo Bonzo is offline
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Smile Engine position

I have my engine & gearbox sat in my chassis ( On blocks )

It has been placed at what I think is the ideal position ( Technicaly ) . Centre of the front crank pulley more or less in a direct straight line to the centre of the input shaft of the diff.
As far back as possible, 20mm clearance between cylider head & scuttle chassis rails.

Looking at the Escort Silvertop Zetec 1.8 sump it will require a bit of a trim to gain maximum ground clearance.

Before I finally get round to fabricating the engine mounting arms . I thought that I would ask for some views.

What are the potential, problems/disadvantages of doing any of the following

Moving the engine forward a couple of inches to possibly allow the use of he standard Zetec Thermostat housing.

Raising the engine a little to allow maximum ground clearance without modding the sump.

One last thing. What thickness material have others used to fabricate the new engine mounting plates.

All thoughts welcome
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  #2  
Old 31st July 2009, 12:33 PM
Tilly819 Tilly819 is offline
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Hey ronnie

main thing is try and keep the prop shaft straight, I dont suspect that moving the engine forward or up an inch ot so would make that much diferance to weight distribution or C.of.G also like you say it also alows you more room to fit other parts if you want,

In responce to your other question i now its not quite the same in that i have a bike engine but i used 5mm for the frame founts for the grear box for that then standard box for the cradle, but for a silvertop id expact you would be fine with 5mm wouldnt go thinner i have heard of people breaking 3mm mounts but i dont think you would need to get thicker.. just over kill

Hop this helps
Tilly
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  #3  
Old 31st July 2009, 12:46 PM
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HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
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Ronnie,
just be aware of the gearstick position if you you move thengine forward, also watch out on the reverse light switch, its very close to one of the tranny tunnel uprights if you go too far forward.

on height of the engine it depends on what bonnet you,ll be putting on, my engine still leaves me about 10mm above the engine oil filler cap to the underside of the bonnet, tho my sump is a shortened one.

i used 10mm plate for the engine mount that bolts into the block, 5mm plate that sits ontop of the rubber engine mount & 2 pieces of 25mm box welded together to make the "leg".

good luck with your engine fitting

andy
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  #4  
Old 31st July 2009, 12:59 PM
davie h davie h is offline
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i made my zetec engine mounts from 35x35mm square tube it was 3mm thick and used 5mm plate for the bits that bolt to the engine and the mounts. i also bought a escort zetec sump and it looks like i wont need to mod it and from checking a nose cone and the height of the scuttle i have plent of room.there are a couple of pics of the mounts and the final engine position on my flickr thing below

Davie
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  #5  
Old 31st July 2009, 01:23 PM
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Bonzo Bonzo is offline
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Smile Thanks

Cheers Tilly, Andy & Davie.

All, helfull as usual

Davie. I have just had a look at your build photos.

May I ask if the engine pictured, is in its final position. This is more or less the final placement that I was thinking.

I have just been out for a quick measure up.
With first gear engaged I can come forward 55mm before contact with the transmission tunnel rails.

At its current level, I have 200mm to the top of the timing belt cover ( Measured from the top rails )

Have you been able to fit the original Zetec Thermostat housing Davie ?

Thanks for your support chaps
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  #6  
Old 31st July 2009, 01:47 PM
adrianreeve adrianreeve is offline
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Ronnie

I'm using the ford 'stat and col pack housing in their original positions with no problem, so you should be fine.

Cheers

Adrian
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  #7  
Old 31st July 2009, 02:04 PM
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Cheers Adrian
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  #8  
Old 31st July 2009, 06:04 PM
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deezee deezee is offline
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I've litrally just got my engine in. I decided base its position on the gearbox. So I made sure the gearbox was clear, lever was in right place, and reverse switch wasn't in the way.

I then fabbed up my mounts out of 40x40x2 SHS, with 5mm plate and landrover engine mounts. I think it looks the biz

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  #9  
Old 31st July 2009, 06:22 PM
mr henderson mr henderson is offline
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I think 3mm is OK depending on the design of the mount itself. Just depends on the shape and how close any folds/bends/filets are to eachother. A well designed and made 3mm mount would be better than a poorly designed 5mm one.
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  #10  
Old 31st July 2009, 06:48 PM
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Bonzo Bonzo is offline
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Cheers for that chaps.

I have bought a pair of those V8 Landrover mounts, ideal for the job.

Yes a lighter,well designed component is often better than a poorly made heavier part.
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