#31
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Thanks again mate.
You certainly are "HandyAndy". All The Best. Progress soon........... |
#32
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Small update..
Haven't been able to make much progress over the last week. This is because I have been extremely busy with work, also had to do a gearbox change on my friends car. Hoping that over the next week I can start to finish off the plates and look at getting the steel ordered! Spent a couple of hours yesterday and managed to complete CP18 x4 (seat mounts) and get the nuts welded into place too. Weld's are not completely clean as the nuts I welded on had some kind of Zinc coating on them to stop them rusting. I ground these off before i welded and also buzzed over the plate before welding so i have 2 clean faces, but i think there must be a small reaction with the metal in the nuts to the metal of the plate. Either way it aint too messy and wont be falling off. Pic... Also after making a thread called "Chassis Nut and Bolt List" i managed to find out the different sizes and lengths of the nuts, bolts and washers for the suspension and the diff. My father was able to bring these home from work with him tonight, i only gave the list to him last night! There is more than enough plus plenty of spares.. Also got him to bring me home some more grinder disks. In the pic above is... - 10 grinder disks - 32 M12 8.8 bolts - 54 nylock M12 nuts - 78 M12 Crimp nuts - 211 M12 washers - 20 M10 normal nuts - 20 M10 Crimp nuts! Just need to order the 2 x diff bolts, 2 x upright bolts, and the head/nut caps now and I should have all the bolts I need. I noticed after reading IVA that you need to use nylock nuts to stop them vibrating loose. Well these are great but can only be used once or they end up loose, also the nylon can melt in temp conditions and also come loose. Was hoping to use these crimp nuts. The last few threads in the nut has a slightly smaller pitch making it like a crimp, so cannot come undone form vibration and can be used as many times as possible. Would this pass IVA? They are Zinc coated so are rust resistant the same as stainless ones. Cheers. |
#33
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No offence meant or intended but it looks as though you have fully threaded bolts on your picture,for suspension and shocker applications and other stressed parts partially threaded bolts would give more security,if you think of every root of the thread as a failure point you can see what I am getting at.
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Cost : Little as possible. Thanks : To those who by their generosity my build has progressed. Its a handmade sports car not a flaming kit car !!! If at first you dont succeed,avoid skydiving... No parachute require to freefall,only if you want to do it twice. |
#34
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What I am seeing in the picture are Set Screws - these are threaded their whole length. Bolts are similar but are not threaded the whole length. It is important when ordering supplies that you specify the correct item as flyerncle says a Set Screw will have inherent weakness when used in certain applications.
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#35
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Thanks for your input guys. I will see what else i can find today. Will keep these bolts for other parts of the car.
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#36
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Quote:
Another thing to note also is your bolts need to be rated as 8.8 tensile strength and BZP bolts have a higher strength than the equivelent stainless ones. |
#37
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Exactly where does this idea that Nylocs are single use come from? I've been re-using nyloc nuts for 30 odd years and never known one to come loose. In the motor trade it is not normal practice to fit a new nyloc nut every time one is undone, we simply refit the old one.
D.
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visit my website at www.cossie.davenewell.co.uk |
#38
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Thanks Guys.
Someone advised me to use shoulder bolts instead of set bolts, so got my father to bring me home what I needed. 60's and 80's. For the 70mm ones i will just have to cut 10mm thread off. Not a problem. Pic.. Davey: I have just noticed that once they have been on and off a few times, they dont have such a tighter fit as when they were new. Ozzy1: All bolts i use will be 8.8 tensile. Pic above |
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