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Finally, its turbo time...
I had put my engine tuning on hold for awhile to make up my mind since I had a few options open to get some extra ponies from the 2.0 Zetec black top and do not want to be sorry later making the wrong choice. Awhile ago I decided on bike TB's over side draft carbs but that was then...
Turbo charging was always on the back of my mind and after helping my son replacing a blown turbo on his TDI Golf, I decided to go that route finally. I looked up everything I could find on Zetec turbocharging and was surprised to discover that a std Zetec can safely be turbocharged as is without any modifications - sans bigger injectors - up to 12psi (0.74bar) and producing about 220 - 230hp on 11psi. Over this pressure charging one needs to lower compression ratio, stronger lower end parts, cams, etc The GT25 unit out of the box is set at 7 - 8psi and without any tinkering should see about 200hp... The modification is simple with a Garrett GT25 turbo charger with intercooler and having made some sums, discovered it would cost basically the same as the TB route but will get a lot more bang for the buck. Since the compression is still the same, the motor should still pulls strongly at low rpm before the turbo starts spooling up - no lag. Even the GT25 unit is known not to have lag due to its fast spooling up. As a bonus, the torque would also be much, much more and spread from about 2000 - 5000rpm, making for lightning acceleration in any gear Anyone done the same with a Zetec? Any comments etc welcome. Thanks Last edited by Wynand : 16th December 2010 at 05:42 PM. |
#2
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Personally this sounds like a dream. The Focus ST170 used a Zetec engine with a turbo to produce 212BHP. Ford rebuilt that engine with uprated internals. Why would your 200BHP build get away with standard internals? Plus your forgetting about al the extra work for the oil and water cooling on the turbo. I think you'll destroy the engine after 30 mins running 10:1 compression, on 8psi. Also a GT25 is just a flange size, you need to spec your turbine and compressor.
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#3
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OK, the complete Garrett I bought is a GT2052 - 727264 - 7 with the GT25 flange size and integrated wastegate actuator to be politically correct...
And it is ONLY an oil cool system and the plumbing for for the oil supply from the block is a simple T piece screwed into the oil pressure unit hole at the back of the block - to take the oil pressure sensor and the supply pipe to the turbo. From the turbo its a simple dump pipe to the sump with a nipple welded into the sump box above oil level. No big deal The Turbo goes onto the existing exhaust manifold with an adapter I will made to suit. Also very easy and cheap. The plumbing to the intercooler from the turbo and back to the TB at the plenum is also a simple affair. Basically, that is the installation.. By trade Im a qualified boilermaker and run an engineering and fabricating (with GRP and electroplating/anodizing plant) concern and perhaps this will explain when I say easy and cheap when discussing piping and fabrications. I suggest you do some Google on Zetec turbo and there are a quite a few dedicated sites and on YouTube there are a few clips of stock standard Zetec turbo installations by pros running from 6 - 11psi with no ill effects. On one forum a chap had run his stock 2.0 Zetec with turbo making 220hp odd for the last 130000 miles or so without any problems... and link to video clip of the car in action. Only one dedicated Zetec turbo site recommend to lowers the CR slightly with a extra shim and gasket to about 8.5:1 for its Spec A (lowest) conversion and everything else still stock standard and result is 200 Wheel Hp and much higher at the flywheel. Here is a link to this: http://turbo.me.uk/ox-spec-a/performance/ The reason I go for a slightly smaller turbo capacity at only about the pre-set 7-8psi is that I want to be rather safe running the stock standard Zetec with it, regardless of other claims. I only want about 200hp at the flywheel, but is the torque over a big band that Im after. But then again, the only way to find out is to build and run it. In my country throttle bodies (for Zetec about 980 pounds without injectors and secondhand GSXR 1000's TB's about 600 ponds) will cost about 50% more than the full cost of my turbo installation and I safe the cost of the expensive custom exhaust branch and the inlet manifold to take the TB's. Last edited by Wynand : 16th December 2010 at 08:27 PM. Reason: typo |
#4
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Generally speaking most engines will take being turbo'd upto around 8psi with no internal mods. The up side to keeping the STD compression ratio is of boost lag is much less and boost comes on much sooner due to the higher temp exhaust gases.
If your goal is not to go mad with what you want STD is the way to go. I would recommend getting the mapping sorted with stand alone ecu. The key to keeping things realiable is having them set up correctly. Running lean on any boosted engine will kill it very very quickly!!! Like wise ignition timing can kill it just as quickly... You will find the ignition will be dramatically retarded once on boost. |
#5
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Turbo Techics did a kit for the I4 DOHC.
This used standard internals and produced roughly 173BHP nearly 50 over standard. My 250TT Sierra has very minor mods to the heads to slightly lower compression and that's 100BHP over standard. So it is possible and will work fine. The big problems come from Bleed valves and HUGE turbos. TT
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You only get a woosh with a dump valve Build Thread Man Cave Mantiques Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders |
#6
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Wynand, if you PM me your E-mail I will forward a PDF file that I bought of eBay on how to turbo charge a zetec as this is my intension (Eventually)
Regards Dean
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#7
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If a rover k series will take some serious boost on stock internals im sure a ford engine will take 8 -12 psi no bother !
Chap i know was experimenting turbo'ing his k series kept going till it went pop found the reason fixed it and kept going till it went pop again but he is a top tuner in scotland
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#8
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Quote:
Aren't both those engines cast iron blocks and therefore stronger? Not sure about the I4 but the V6 also has cast iron heads doesn't it? Also worth bearing in mind that Turbo technics are turbo experts. There was a robin hood zero with a blown pinto in CKC a while back, made 140ish bhp and did 12-16mpg with a mish-mash home made setup. Much higher figures are possible with a professionaly made kit. I don't know if there is one for a zetec but there might be.
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#9
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Yes the V6 Is all cast iron, and the I4 has an alloy head. But the block head construction is not the main factor in reliability of a turbo engine.
Good clamping of the head is a must, we have seen some of the 300BHP+ 2.9 4x4's lifting the heads of the block leading to gasket failure. But this can be resolved one owner is running about 540BHP on a 2.9 12v (Built by a very good engine builder who also builds LS Serise GM V8's). He also built another XROC member a I4 with uprated bottom end that was being used in a sprint car at 240+ BHP. Both Turbo Technics setups are quite rudimentary, but they used small faster spinning turbos to build boost quickly and reduce lag. TT have done a lot of development work over the last few decades though. I was parked next to MR TurboTechnics's (Geoff Kershaw) Scorpio 24V Twin Turbo a couple of years ago at a show. We all had a good chat. The old route for Zetecs was to build a ZVH (Zetec + CVH) which was a big thing for RS Turbo owners alowing them to go from a 1.6 to 2.0 Bottom end. It's still a popular conversion and well documented. There is plenty of information, parts and potential for turboing a Zetec. TT
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You only get a woosh with a dump valve Build Thread Man Cave Mantiques Cecil Street Auto Repairs Garage Carlisle Build Cost £4181.65 - Last - Wheel Cylinders |
#10
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Quote:
The mapping will be left for a specialised turbo tuning shop when all is done. |
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