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  #1  
Old 10th January 2010, 09:55 AM
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so when reamed, the OD of the lower hole should be at 16mm.

Cool.

Cheers

TT
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  #2  
Old 10th January 2010, 10:03 AM
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See, now you getting complicated.

When I did mine I kept doing a bit then tested it, till I got about half the thread through.
So when I tightened it up it pulled in snug without the thread bottoming out.

Not sure, but think if you did it till the bottom was 16mm it may be too much.
You will need someone that has done one recently to be sure.
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Old 10th January 2010, 11:09 AM
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i did mine as Dogwood suggests,

a little at a time, keep checking that you haven,t gone too far,

takes about 10 mins per upright, do it like tapping a thread, half turn in quarter turn back.... keeps the cutting edge of the reamer clean of swarf & helps get a clean cut on the steel.

cheers
andy
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Old 10th January 2010, 11:16 AM
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Sounds easy enough, I just remember when I started a Locost back in 2004 that this was one of the difficult bits to get done ( or there was no information ). Which is why I bought Astra bottom ball joints.

I gave up that build due to a number of issues and sold the chassi.. I got an email last year from the guy that bougt the bits saying he needed a quick letter to state the chassis was new as he was about to register the car

TT
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Old 10th January 2010, 03:12 PM
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Which was the question i was asking. is the taper the correct angle. Seems there is some doubt..

TT
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Old 10th January 2010, 06:34 PM
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Anyone got one to measure then?

TT
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  #7  
Old 10th January 2010, 07:34 PM
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I used the 19mm Axminster one set up in the pillar drill and kept cutting and checking till i was happy with the fit basiclly full nut and washer of thread sticking out the top and the largest bit of the taper just visible below the upright.
The taper is a good enough fit that after only tightening a little the need to be tapped to get back off.
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Old 26th February 2010, 10:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HandyAndy View Post
i did mine as Dogwood suggests,

a little at a time, keep checking that you haven,t gone too far,

takes about 10 mins per upright, do it like tapping a thread, half turn in quarter turn back.... keeps the cutting edge of the reamer clean of swarf & helps get a clean cut on the steel.

cheers
andy


thats funny andy if you look at this quote of yours back in august you said it took you 15mins a side

Quote:
Originally Posted by HandyAndy View Post
took me about 15 minutes for eachside by hand, just keep checking that you don,t go too far,
whilst turning the reamer just keep downwards pressure on it so that it is actually cutting.

andy
thats a sign of working too many long hours, you loose all perspective of time
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Old 26th February 2010, 10:55 PM
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i cant seem to find one where it was fully finished but here you go. you need to ream it deep enough so that the rubber is almost touching the hub. i did the first one by hand. even though i through drilled it before i started, it still took about 30 mins. the second one i couldn't be arsed with so clamped the buggar on the cross slide vice and done it on the lathe, still took a while but didnt kill my hand and the result was much better.









if anyone wants i can sell you a made to order, modified axminster reamer that will fit in a 13mm chuck. £12 including postage.

Last edited by AshG : 26th February 2010 at 11:00 PM.
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  #10  
Old 26th February 2010, 10:59 PM
Big Vern Big Vern is offline
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Hi Ash,
Did you put the ream in the chuck and clamp the upright to the Xslide?
I need to do something similar with the top for the MX-5 uprights to take the Tranny van ball joint.

BV.
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