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  #91  
Old 11th December 2013, 04:16 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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Five mins in the oven Lucas with your dinner .
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  #92  
Old 11th December 2013, 04:22 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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Another thought on the cooling scenario,if you place the fan on a cowl behind the radiator you are stopping the airflow as it hits the cowl and cant escape freely as the fan is there,the fan is further away but you will have air hitting the cowling and there is no straight path out of it.

A lot of the stuff I repair(Vag) etc the fan is in the front bang up against the rad and no probs even the V6 tdi and RS 6 and the like.
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Cost : Little as possible.
Thanks : To those who by their generosity my build has progressed.
Its a handmade sports car not a flaming kit car !!!


If at first you dont succeed,avoid skydiving...

No parachute require to freefall,only if you want to do it twice.
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  #93  
Old 12th December 2013, 01:18 PM
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loony loony is offline
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Quick update - I installed new rear hub bearings...

Disassembling:


Assembly tools:


Bearings and seals in place:


Ready:
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ZX9R BEC Haynes Roadster - build cost so far: £1125
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  #94  
Old 12th December 2013, 11:43 PM
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voucht voucht is offline
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David, I didn't want to come back on this either, although I wrote a reply this morning that I haven't published. But as I'm not alone in this, well, I can't help myself
And sorry Lucas to high-jack your build thread.

Quote:
Originally Posted by davidimurray View Post
If you put something directly in front of the radiator, you will stop the air flowing to the core in that area, conversely if you put something directly behind the radiator air cannot flow out of that area so no flow. Think of blowing down a straw – doesn’t matter if you put a finger over the top or the bottom end when you blow down it either way you still get no flow! Even if the fan is slightly spaced off the back the air needs time to turn to get around the fan.
That is where I think you are mistaken. Anything mounted in front of the radiator will stop 100% of the natural air flow. But anything mounted behind a radiator will not stop it 100%, event if the fan is against the core. I will slow the airflow down for sure, obstruct part of it it with no doubts, but some air will still go through the core there : Why? Because hopefully, the blade's hub (which is +/- the same diameter as the motor), even though it is quite close to the core, is not touching the core! And that is the big difference.
If I take your example of the straw : put your finger in front of the straw, not touching it, but very close (as the blade's hub is not touching the core when you mount the fan against it), and blow: air will not go into the straw. Now, put your finger at exactly the same distance of the straw, but behind, and blow: air will go through it.
The only obstruction you can consider equal in the front and behind the radiator is the outer ring which actually touches the core. but it is so thin that is not a problem.

As I wrote this morning but haven't published, I' might not be an engineer, or the best mechanic in the world, far from it, and I recognize it. I'm certainly the one on this forum who is asking the most obvious and stupid question to you guys who were born with a wrench in your hands. I'm totally aware of this, and I thank all of you for helping me when my knowledge is not good enough for doing what I have to do on the car. That is what a forum is done for: sharing knowledge, isn't it?
So I don't know a lot about welding, exhausts, material resistance and so on... But I have been working for 15 years, (and still am I), for a company which is a specialist of fluid conduction in motor sports vehicles. As you already know, brake lines are part of it. But this company also deals with the other kind of fluids: fuel, oil, water, and air. And perhaps I can share my knowledge about that.
During all these years, I have had contacts with the best companies designing custom cooling systems for motor sports. As most of you are English, I am sure you know them, as most of these companies are English too. I don't want to mane any of them here, because what I say here involves me and only me, but if you know the good ones, they are the ones I am talking about.
These guys are engineers, and they know what they are talking about. For our customers, my company and theirs have studied and designed together radiator + fan assemblies for car racing Le Mans or the Paris-Dakar rally raid to name just a few. And not only one or two. When they were racing in the Sahara, they knew what a hot day is...
But as I said, I'm not an engineer, so I stupidly repeat what I have heard, learnt from them, and read from their literature during the last 15 years. Because my job is to write and edit the French literatures, catalogues (I'm currently working on the 2014 edition), technical files and support for our customers.
So believe me or not, but there is a proven fact that a rear mounted fan against the core is more efficient than a front mounted one. These guys have wind tunnels where they can prove it any time. Which does not mean that a front mounted or a ducted fan does not work. It does work, just not as good as a rear mounted one against the core for the reason I wrote at the beginning of this post.
I can't imagine the engineers of these companies advising a rear mounted ducted fan or a front mounted fan if there is a possibility to put a rear mounted fan against the core. I' have never seen that anyway.

A fan is just an assistance when the car is not in motion or when its speed is not sufficient to allow the natural airflow to extract calories from the water through the tubes and fins of the core. OK, on some applications where there is no or too few natural airflow from the speed of the car, it can work much longer, more often, or even constantly. But it is not our problem with the Haynes Roadster which has a big front opening.

As you say, there are 2 situations
1) Car stationary and fan running
2) Car moving
Ducting the fan on the radiator is considering only the number one. I'm sorry, but yes, the duct will obstruct the air flow more than if there were no duct and the fan mounted against the core. Again, I don't agree with you that it will be better, and that the supposed venturi effect will be even beneficial because an acceleration of the airflow. A venturi is a very specific aerodynamic phenomenon, and I'm not sure a radiator duct has this effect at all. The airflow going through all the outer fins will be slowed down by the duct, to me there is no doubt about that. The consequence of ducting the fan, in the "car moving" situation, is what is called a "charge drop" (I'm not sure this is the proper English term, sorry if it is not, but I think you know what I mean) which is the enemy of any kind of fluid conduction. Ducting a fan on the radiator is considering that the natural airflow will never be enough, and the fan will do most of the job. Of course, that way, the cooling in the “fan moments” will be very good, certainly better than a non-ducted equivalent set-up. But what share of the time does that concern in our situation?
So ducting is very good if there is no, or too little natural airflow from the speed of the car, because most of the cooling will be done thanks to the fan. But if in the normal conditions, the natural airflow is sufficient, which should be on the Roadster, in my opinion, it is another obstruction, and bigger one than the fan mounted against the core. The duct sacrifices the radiator area in front of it in normal use condition (when the fan is not needed), not 100% of it of course, but it does.

I'm not angry or anything, no problem for me. I just wanted to make my point, because I just hope I can help sometimes as well.

Thanks for the attention if you have read this post to the end!
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  #95  
Old 14th December 2013, 11:29 PM
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alga alga is offline
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I have the Polo 1.1l rad, basically as small as they get. The fan only comes on after ~15 mins of idling in warm weather, or when stopping from a spirited ride. I hung the fan on zip ties through the core, but stuck some window sealer foam tape on the edge. The fan's efficiency is completely fine, it always goes back off within 30 seconds of turning on. I was stuck in traffic in 25°C heat on a couple of occasions, no cooling problems to report.

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  #96  
Old 13th January 2014, 05:38 PM
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loony loony is offline
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Back to my build thread
I visited metalshop and had my steering hub turned down (to fit paddle shifter):





I also got my pedal bushes...


Now I can weld my pedalbox.
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ZX9R BEC Haynes Roadster - build cost so far: £1125
My build thread

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  #97  
Old 13th January 2014, 08:04 PM
flyerncle flyerncle is offline
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Sylvain,ask what you need to know and dont worry about it,Radiator is all about cooling and heat transfer so a fan behind the radiator would allow the largest surface area to be cooled un-restricted by the fan so more efficient.
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If at first you dont succeed,avoid skydiving...

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  #98  
Old 15th January 2014, 05:51 PM
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loony loony is offline
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I trial fitted paddle shifter... that's why I needed hub to be turned down:







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ZX9R BEC Haynes Roadster - build cost so far: £1125
My build thread

"Whatever you can do or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it." J.W.Goethe
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  #99  
Old 15th January 2014, 05:54 PM
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loony loony is offline
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I think that spacing between steering wheel and paddles is right...





I'm very proud of myself - because it's my creation, my engineering It only need small final touches (edge smoothing) and little paint on "adapter" as it's steel, but it fits almost like I wanted.
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Lucas

ZX9R BEC Haynes Roadster - build cost so far: £1125
My build thread

"Whatever you can do or dream you can, begin it. Boldness has genius, power, and magic in it." J.W.Goethe

Last edited by loony : 15th January 2014 at 05:57 PM.
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  #100  
Old 15th January 2014, 08:16 PM
ayjay ayjay is offline
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Its looking good. Great stuff
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