Haynes Forums  

Go Back   Haynes Forums > Haynes Roadster Forums > Engine/transmission
FAQ Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11  
Old 27th March 2013, 02:09 PM
Shorty Shorty is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: South shields
Posts: 166
Default

Oh I see rich, so it could actually be there somewhere...

Could you confirm that I am looking in the correct location and I could take some close up pictures and wire brush some more.
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 27th March 2013, 07:37 PM
rich's Avatar
rich rich is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Tamworth
Posts: 107
Default

On the third picture down its stamped on the block on the flat area next to the fly wheel and the crank sensor housing, yours looks quite rusty, I been told the correct way to read it was to use a uv light and sum die
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 28th March 2013, 11:52 AM
Shorty Shorty is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: South shields
Posts: 166
Default

Thanks, I will see what I can do with it.
I will try get some dye and uv light if not too expensive
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 30th March 2013, 11:07 AM
Shorty Shorty is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: South shields
Posts: 166
Default

Gave it a good wire brushing yesterday but the metal is very pitted due to corrosion I can just make out one number so there was something there at some point.
Still struggling to make anything out when we zooming in on computer.
I will try smoothing the surface with emery paper and hopefully there will be something left but I have my doubts.
Without engine number am I wasting my time and will need another engine?
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 30th March 2013, 12:53 PM
Stot's Avatar
Stot Stot is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wolverhampton
Posts: 750
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty View Post
Gave it a good wire brushing yesterday but the metal is very pitted due to corrosion I can just make out one number so there was something there at some point.
Still struggling to make anything out when we zooming in on computer.
I will try smoothing the surface with emery paper and hopefully there will be something left but I have my doubts.
Without engine number am I wasting my time and will need another engine?
You could also try etching to get the engine number to show up better.

Theres a guide here, you will need some etching acid but it would probably be worth a try before buying a new engine.

Cheers
Stot
__________________
1.6 Mazda B6 : Garrett TBO339 : 420cc WRX Injectors : FMIC : Microsquirt V3 : LC-2 Wideband : Toyota COP
Build Started Jan 2013 : OTR Aug 2014 : Build Pictures
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 30th March 2013, 07:12 PM
Shorty Shorty is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: South shields
Posts: 166
Default

Ah ha!
Quick rub down and now i'm getting somewhere.
I have EYDE _ _ _ 4 6 3 5 Σ

So that proves it is a 1.8 anyway.

Some of them i'm not quite sure of but the centre is really bad and don't want to rub down too far.
Any idea where to get the acid?
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 30th March 2013, 10:35 PM
Stot's Avatar
Stot Stot is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wolverhampton
Posts: 750
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Shorty View Post
Ah ha!
Quick rub down and now i'm getting somewhere.
I have EYDE _ _ _ 4 6 3 5 Σ

So that proves it is a 1.8 anyway.

Some of them i'm not quite sure of but the centre is really bad and don't want to rub down too far.
Any idea where to get the acid?
I bought my last bottle of hydrochloric acid (17%) from http://mistralni.co.uk this is basically a 50/50 mix already but In the instructions link I posted it also says..

Quote:
An easily obtainable close approximation of this is swimming
pool muriatic acid, available from swimming pool and home improvement
stores, usually already in a diluted form.
So maybe a local spa or pool place would be easier.

If you are going to do this follow all the proper safety precautions, if diluting add the HCL acid to water not water to acid, but from the sound of it this could pull out the last few numbers.

Cheers
Stot
__________________
1.6 Mazda B6 : Garrett TBO339 : 420cc WRX Injectors : FMIC : Microsquirt V3 : LC-2 Wideband : Toyota COP
Build Started Jan 2013 : OTR Aug 2014 : Build Pictures

Last edited by Stot : 30th March 2013 at 10:38 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 30th March 2013, 11:48 PM
Shorty Shorty is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: South shields
Posts: 166
Default

Thanks very much. Will order a bottle.
Just had a look but can only see 10 or 28 percent.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 2nd April 2013, 04:32 PM
Shorty Shorty is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: South shields
Posts: 166
Default

I wasn't sure about the different percentages or how to mix them and I found some concentrated pretty cheap so will just mix 50/50 as the guide says.

Fingers crossed. I will get some before and after pictures if it works.
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 2nd April 2013, 06:08 PM
Stot's Avatar
Stot Stot is offline
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Wolverhampton
Posts: 750
Default

Sorry, concentrated HCL is around 35-38% so you are looking for around half that as a final acid so 17% is about right.

I would suggest just doing a couple of ml of solution, you only need to rub a little on the area so dont need to mix much at all.

Good luck!

Cheers
Stot
__________________
1.6 Mazda B6 : Garrett TBO339 : 420cc WRX Injectors : FMIC : Microsquirt V3 : LC-2 Wideband : Toyota COP
Build Started Jan 2013 : OTR Aug 2014 : Build Pictures
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump


All times are GMT +1. The time now is 07:49 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.