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Old 24th August 2012, 10:30 AM
jps jps is offline
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Default BR10 - Chop!

Bank holiday approaches - so hopefully a chance to make some progress!

I'm hoping to get the engine & gearbox out of my donor Sierra so I can trial fit and work out where engine and gearbox mounts need to go.

If i get that far i'm going to have to chop the bit of BR10 out that goes across the transmission tunnel.

Perhaps it's because it was all put together when I got it - and I don't have a build table handy in case it all goes pear shaped - but I reckon it'll be a nervous few minutes when I start hacking into the box section with the angle grinder!!!! I guess the chassis overall is so solid it won't move a gnats though?

Last edited by jps : 24th August 2012 at 10:33 AM.
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Old 24th August 2012, 12:40 PM
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ozzy1 ozzy1 is offline
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You could weld in some extra pieces to brace across the lower of the transmission tunnel. This would aid any movement and also act as a support should the propshaft break etc.Realistically when you cut that part out cut about 5mm away from the uprights so that there is plenty of weld and you will only get very minimal movement,maybe a couple of mm at the most.
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Old 24th August 2012, 03:31 PM
jps jps is offline
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I'm not too worried really - it's just a bit like when you start knocking down a wall - and wonder if there are going to be any horrific implications just before you swing the lump hammer for the first time...

I'm guessing that once the engine is bolted in it'll act as a brace across the chassis anyway?
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Old 25th August 2012, 09:53 AM
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voucht voucht is offline
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I think that even for a engine-gearbox fitting trial you need to remove this section of BR10. Anyway, when you fully weld your chassis, and put the "caps" where the tubes are open, there will be this 2 ends of BR10 to put a cap on. That is when I cut my BR10. I cut it flush with U7/ U8, and I guess there is enough welding on the 3 faces of U7/U8 + the cap, but I like Ozzy's idea to cut BR10 5mm away from these uprights.
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