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  #1  
Old 17th April 2011, 11:46 AM
Ashtonr Ashtonr is offline
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Default SS1 and CP11 and GRP Rear Tub

Ok another quick sanity check, Im trying to align the Rear Tub made from GRP
and it wants to interfear with the SS1 infils, am I right in assuming if you fit a GRP rear tub the SS1 and CP11 bits are not needed ?
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  #2  
Old 17th April 2011, 12:00 PM
trick-kit trick-kit is offline
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That's right, if fitting the rear tub, the radius that forms that area wants to end in the corner of the chassis.

Hope that makes sense

ATB

TK
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  #3  
Old 17th April 2011, 12:03 PM
Ashtonr Ashtonr is offline
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Smile

Thanks for this, I will cut them off then
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Old 17th April 2011, 01:09 PM
Ashtonr Ashtonr is offline
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Fits perfectly with these removed

Many Thanks
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  #5  
Old 22nd April 2011, 08:37 PM
Ashtonr Ashtonr is offline
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Has anyone got any drawings showing what to remove for the rear suspension / upright etc from the rear tub in relation to SB1 and D11 ?
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Old 23rd April 2011, 08:52 AM
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HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashtonr View Post
Has anyone got any drawings showing what to remove for the rear suspension / upright etc from the rear tub in relation to SB1 and D11 ?
Do you mean what you need to cut out of the rear tub GRP panel so that you can then refit the suspension/upright/wishbones?

if so, then fit the tub without any rear suspension on the chassis, cut out the GRP following the rear face of the SB1,s & the forward face of the D11,s, don,t go too high up to the suspension "box", ( approx 2 inches below the bottom edge would be about right ),

I,ll have a dig around & see if I can post up a photo of how mine was done.

cheers
andy
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Last edited by HandyAndy : 23rd April 2011 at 09:07 AM.
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Old 23rd April 2011, 09:05 AM
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HandyAndy HandyAndy is offline
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This photo shows the cut out suggestion.



Tho if being totally honest I wouldn,t cut it as high as mine where it meets the bottom edge of the suspension/roll bar mounting box,

It also shows where the edge of the tub meets the D9 & D10 parts.

hope the pic helps.

cheers
andy
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  #8  
Old 23rd April 2011, 09:28 AM
cornishmaid cornishmaid is offline
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Use the chassis tubes as a guide, I held the panel in place while my other half marked inside the fibreglass panel. We used a jig saw to cut this out. We opted to go with Triton's suggestion which was to have the fibreglass to bottom edge of roll bar area as this allows more space to remove the shock absorber.
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  #9  
Old 23rd April 2011, 09:40 AM
Ashtonr Ashtonr is offline
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Brilliant thats exactly what I needed

Thanks Rob
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