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  #11  
Old 28th November 2011, 08:43 PM
baz-r baz-r is offline
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steel brake pipe is only std fitment to prouduction cars realy as cheap hard and rusts. almost all is copper or cupro nickel as it can be formed into bends lasts longer and swaged easly.
i dont know if you can get replacment steel pipe anymore?
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  #12  
Old 10th December 2011, 09:02 PM
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rapidtornado rapidtornado is offline
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Think I'm gone mock mine up in the plastic coated stiff wire you get from garden centres then take my fittings and pipe down the local garage where I get all the cars MOT'd and ask them if they can do it.... think it will be cheaper than buy expensive kit and they are less likely to balls it up than me
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  #13  
Old 11th December 2011, 12:38 PM
baz-r baz-r is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rapidtornado View Post
Think I'm gone mock mine up in the plastic coated stiff wire you get from garden centres then take my fittings and pipe down the local garage where I get all the cars MOT'd and ask them if they can do it.... think it will be cheaper than buy expensive kit and they are less likely to balls it up than me
as long as you get the length and ends right you need made in copper then you can bend your pipe easly by hand around a bolt or can to get the radius you need
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  #14  
Old 19th December 2011, 11:37 PM
Davidbolam Davidbolam is offline
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Default flaring tool

has anyone ever used one of these and are they any good??

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.d...=p5197.c0.m619
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  #15  
Old 20th December 2011, 06:50 AM
AnguS AnguS is offline
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i have a snap-on one that must be nearly as old as me, used to be my dad's, and after using it last night i can confirm it still works as good as it did when he had it....

half the battle with these tools, is cutting the pipe square, and deburring it the same every time
that and propper placement of the pipe before you start winding

the other half is remembering to put the nut on first!
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  #16  
Old 20th December 2011, 08:27 AM
robo robo is offline
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[quote=baz-r;68778]as long as you get the length and ends right you need made in copper then you can bend your pipe easly by hand around a bolt or can to get the radius you need


Dont forget if you get them made up to remember which end is convex and which is concave.

Bob
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  #17  
Old 21st December 2011, 04:11 PM
baz-r baz-r is offline
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iirc all sierra stuff is convex for male, concave for female (m10x1.0)
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  #18  
Old 8th July 2012, 02:55 PM
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brainbug007 brainbug007 is offline
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Sorry to dig this thread up... Finally getting round to trying to learn to flare. Am I right in thinking that for the convex for male ends (single flair) I just use the tool with the dye in to make the 1st flair? And then to make it a concave (double flair) for female ends I just remove the dye and do it again?
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  #19  
Old 8th July 2012, 03:07 PM
robo robo is offline
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datz da one

Bob
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  #20  
Old 9th July 2012, 10:28 AM
baz-r baz-r is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brainbug007 View Post
Sorry to dig this thread up... Finally getting round to trying to learn to flare. Am I right in thinking that for the convex for male ends (single flair) I just use the tool with the dye in to make the 1st flair? And then to make it a concave (double flair) for female ends I just remove the dye and do it again?
yep the second flair is the cone shape bit on your tool and folds the front half of your first flair back to make it like a funnel.

i find the best thing to do is cut the end off all your metal pipes leaving the end with its nut etc. in the parts you take off your doner then you know the tread,length and type of swage you need when you make all your pipes up.
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