Anyone know how to keep cut square when hack sawing

[jonte]

Please forgive me if this has been asked many times before, but I'm curious to know that when the square tubeing used for the chassis is cut with a hack saw, how do you ensure a square cut without resorting to files/lenishers/grinders etc. to square it up?

In eager anticipation of a reply confirming that this can be done, I'm taking up weight training to strengthen the forearm muscles of my cutting arm

Jonte

PS.... came across cutting guides for use with round tubeing whilst surfing but nothing so far for square stuff.

[Tony]

maybe clamp an oversized piece of angle or 2 to the box section to give you a guide?

but easiest way would be to buy a rage or similar chop saw and do it that way

[Enoch]

Mark the metal both across and down, use a square to make sure both lines are at exactly 90 degrees to the work piece, make sure the lines are quite thin but easily visible. Use smooth deliberate strokes on the saw, take your time. Focus your attention on the two lines. The saw will be pointing down at the front approx 15-20 degrees. Always use a good quality blade - I like the bimetallic ones. Key thing is to not be in too much of a hurry, a good blade will cut quite quickly. Keep your body still, with a bit of practice it becomes a lot easier. The other way is to get somebody else to do it
All the best,
Enoch

[mr henderson]

Years ago I used a Nobex mitre saw with a metal cutting blade. Worked very well, and could do all the non-compound angles too (needed to cut a couple of wooden wedges to do the angles greater than 45 degrees, just rough cut the tube, then add the angle of the wedge to the angle showing on the mitre saw, and clamp the tube so it's against the wedge instead of the bit at the back it normally rests against (the fence).

Bloody accurate, but hard work. Make sure you clamp the whole mitre saw down so you can really put your shoulder into it.

THere's plenty of cheap saws around now that would do the same job, as long as you can get suitable blades (Nobex is the posh one)

http://www.axminster.co.uk/nobex-nob...saw-prod22818/

They do much cheaper ones too, but the difficulty will be getting the ferrous blades.

[Bonzo]

Originally Posted by Enoch

Mark the metal both across and down, use a square to make sure both lines are at exactly 90 degrees to the work piece, make sure the lines are quite thin but easily visible. Use smooth deliberate strokes on the saw, take your time. Focus your attention on the two lines. The saw will be pointing down at the front approx 15-20 degrees. Always use a good quality blade - I like the bimetallic ones. Key thing is to not be in too much of a hurry, a good blade will cut quite quickly. Keep your body still, with a bit of practice it becomes a lot easier. The other way is to get somebody else to do it
All the best,
Enoch

Tip top info there Enoch

Just to add, it is a great help if you have the material being cut held level in the vice ( A small spirit level will do nicely )
This will assist greatly to avoid run out.

[Oily]

Also make sure the blade in your hacksaw is tightened properly.

[jonte]

Originally Posted by Tony

maybe clamp an oversized piece of angle or 2 to the box section to give you a guide?

but easiest way would be to buy a rage or similar chop saw and do it that way

Brilliant idea, Tony, thank you. In fact, that's a Heath Robinson version of the cutting guides I referred to; think this might work.....just need a vice now and some suitable clamps!

Rage saw: nice idea, but would like to keep it simple for now and mess about with a couple of offcuts I cadged from a local fabricators last week (keeping the cost down will keep the peace at home for now at least!).

Incidentally, cut an arbitrary angle in one of these lengths with my 'never-used before-hack saw' whilst balanced on a coping stone of one of my flower beds last week just to try it out; was surprised at how square I got it and after a quick rub with a file my brother gave me several years ago (again never used before) it fitted quite snugly against the other piece - will see if I can get a photo and you can laugh, sorry, judge for yourself at the standard of fit.

Probably just beginner's luck which is why I'll feel better with some sort of guide.

Thanks again, Tony.

[jonte]

Originally Posted by Enoch

Mark the metal both across and down, use a square to make sure both lines are at exactly 90 degrees to the work piece, make sure the lines are quite thin but easily visible. Use smooth deliberate strokes on the saw, take your time. Focus your attention on the two lines. The saw will be pointing down at the front approx 15-20 degrees. Always use a good quality blade - I like the bimetallic ones. Key thing is to not be in too much of a hurry, a good blade will cut quite quickly. Keep your body still, with a bit of practice it becomes a lot easier. The other way is to get somebody else to do it
All the best,
Enoch

Appreciate the step-by-step guide Enoch (this si the only way I'll be able to follow any advice given!!!). Thank you. Tempted by the advice of your final sentence but I've got to at least give it a go if only to show my appreciation of everyones valuable help and advice.

[jonte]

Originally Posted by mr henderson

Years ago I used a Nobex mitre saw with a metal cutting blade. Worked very well, and could do all the non-compound angles too (needed to cut a couple of wooden wedges to do the angles greater than 45 degrees, just rough cut the tube, then add the angle of the wedge to the angle showing on the mitre saw, and clamp the tube so it's against the wedge instead of the bit at the back it normally rests against (the fence).

Bloody accurate, but hard work. Make sure you clamp the whole mitre saw down so you can really put your shoulder into it.

THere's plenty of cheap saws around now that would do the same job, as long as you can get suitable blades (Nobex is the posh one)

http://www.axminster.co.uk/nobex-nob...saw-prod22818/


They do much cheaper ones too, but the difficulty will be getting the ferrous blades.

Thanks for that, Mr Henderson, and the helpful link. Will take a look

[jonte]

Originally Posted by Bonzo

Tip top info there Enoch

Just to add, it is a great help if you have the material being cut held level in the vice ( A small spirit level will do nicely )
This will assist greatly to avoid run out.

Hello, Enoch, and thank you. My shopping list is getting longer Mind you, this is the sort of tool I can pick up in Poundland so keep it coming !!