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  #11  
Old 16th September 2010, 10:41 PM
jonte jonte is offline
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Originally Posted by Oily View Post
Also make sure the blade in your hacksaw is tightened properly.
You mean that they can come off? I'm learning all the time Thanks Oily it all helps.

Jonte
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  #12  
Old 16th September 2010, 11:12 PM
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You mean that they can come off? I'm learning all the time Thanks Oily it all helps.

Jonte
It just helps make straighter cuts.What TPI (teeth per inch) blades are you using at the moment
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  #13  
Old 16th September 2010, 11:30 PM
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It just helps make straighter cuts.What TPI (teeth per inch) blades are you using at the moment
Hi Again Oily.

Just been into garage to have a look; it's a Sandiflex blade marked '24 TPI'.
Just noticed that it's also a bi-metallic as recommended by Enoch - what a coincidence!!

Jonte
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  #14  
Old 17th September 2010, 12:13 AM
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Mark the metal both across and down, use a square to make sure both lines are at exactly 90 degrees to the work piece, make sure the lines are quite thin but easily visible. Use smooth deliberate strokes on the saw, take your time. Focus your attention on the two lines. The saw will be pointing down at the front approx 15-20 degrees. Always use a good quality blade - I like the bimetallic ones. Key thing is to not be in too much of a hurry, a good blade will cut quite quickly. Keep your body still, with a bit of practice it becomes a lot easier. The other way is to get somebody else to do it
All the best,
Enoch

BTW Enoch - enjoyed your diary - exemplary stuff!!!

Jonte
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  #15  
Old 17th September 2010, 08:02 AM
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One of the best bits of advice i was ever given for using a handsaw accurately (this applies to any handsaw) is to line your head up so that your left eye is to the left of the blade and your right eye to the right then watch the cut from both sides. Sounds more difficult than it actually is but it does help enormously to follow the line.

D.
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  #16  
Old 17th September 2010, 08:30 AM
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I'd use 18tpi blades on the box section,24 seem a little to fine but that's me
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  #17  
Old 17th September 2010, 08:45 AM
TheArf TheArf is offline
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When I started as an apprentice I was told to stand with legs slightly apart and to be as comfortable as possible and to point my fore finger along the backbone of the hacksaw. The secret is having the job level and your vice at the right hight for yourself. Another little tip is if your left handed us the left hand side of the vice and if your right handed use the right hand side so that when you cut through if your hand shoots forward you dont take the skin off your knuckles, that hurts!!!!!!!!!
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  #18  
Old 17th September 2010, 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Oily View Post
I'd use 18tpi blades on the box section,24 seem a little to fine but that's me
That's my personal choice of blade ( 18 TPI ) for the general cutting of this type of material

All of the angled cuts on my chassis were done with my trusty hacksaw, hard work but a lot less time consuming than constantly changing the cutting angle on the bandsaw.

Mind you, if I took some time to do some mods to the badsaws angle adjustment bolts & worked out a methodical cutting plan, life could have been a lot easier for me
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  #19  
Old 17th September 2010, 04:14 PM
jonte jonte is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davey View Post
One of the best bits of advice i was ever given for using a handsaw accurately (this applies to any handsaw) is to line your head up so that your left eye is to the left of the blade and your right eye to the right then watch the cut from both sides. Sounds more difficult than it actually is but it does help enormously to follow the line.

D.
Thanks Davey - feels like I'm actually serving an appenticeship; no need for night school now as I'm obviously in good company
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  #20  
Old 17th September 2010, 04:17 PM
jonte jonte is offline
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Quote:
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I'd use 18tpi blades on the box section,24 seem a little to fine but that's me

Thanks for the reply Oily - I'll keep my eye open for some.

Jonte
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